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21 Best Places to Visit in Upstate New York

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  • Best tourist destination: Niagara Falls
  • Underrated hidden gem: Jamestown
  • Best for families: Sylvan Beach
  • Best for couples: Windham
  • Best for solo travelers: Beacon

New York might be best known for the city that never sleeps, but there’s a whole state to explore beyond the Big Apple. Home to the Finger Lakes, the Adirondack Mountains, and the Catskill Mountains, upstate New York is a haven for outdoor adventure and boasts some of the East Coast’s most stunning landscapes. But it’s not all swimming, skiing, and sightseeing—there’s also charming villages, lauded museums, thriving wine regions, and renowned performing arts scenes.

Whether you want to catch a Broadway-caliber show in a small town, follow a waterfall-watching itinerary, or just relax by a lake, these are 21 of the best places to visit in upstate New York.

Niagara Falls

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You can’t visit upstate New York and not stop at Niagara Falls, home to the iconic cascades themselves. In Niagara Falls State Park—the oldest state park in America—you can sail close to the falls on boat tours or descend into the gorge to stand at the foot of Bridal Veil Falls and get doused with spray (don’t worry, you’re given a poncho).

But the falls aren’t the only thing worth visiting in this border town, which sits across the Niagara River from its Canadian counterpart. Thanks to its proximity to the neighboring nation, Niagara Falls was a key stop along the Underground Railroad, which you can learn about at the Niagara Falls Underground Railroad Heritage Center. Housed in an 1863 Customs House near the old International Suspension Bridge, the center’s award-winning permanent exhibit chronicles how heroes like Harriet Tubman led people to freedom across the river.

Jamestown

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New York City isn’t the only town in this state that’s famous for comedy. As the birthplace and hometown of Lucille Ball from “I Love Lucy,” Jamestown—which is situated at the southern end of Chautauqua Lake—celebrates its biggest star by being a destination for anyone interested in the history and art of comedy. Pop into the National Comedy Center museum, where you can tour exhibits, play comedy games, and catch live shows. At the Lucille Ball Desi Arnaz Museum, enter the world of “I Love Lucy” through recreated sets, costume displays, and other props and memorabilia.

While Jamestown is definitely good for a few laughs, there’s other art to be found here as well. Drive roughly half an hour up the lake to the renowned Chautauqua Institution, a unique cultural center and educational campus, to experience its jam-packed summer schedule of concerts, dances, lectures, plays, and operas. Visitors can attend one-off events, or stay on campus at the Athenaeum Hotel for full immersion in what the institution calls its “exploration of the best in human values and the enrichment of life.”

Sylvan Beach

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With its sandy beaches, warm water, and old-timey attractions, the village of Sylvan Beach on Oneida Lake offers a classic upstate summer vacation. Families can ride roller coasters and play games at the seasonal Sylvan Beach Amusement Park, enjoy events like Pirates Weekend and Canal Fest, and try all sorts of watersports from kayaking to stand-up paddleboarding.

Another great way to enjoy Oneida Lake is by staying at The Cove at Sylvan Beach. Each lake house rental comes with a private pontoon boat to use during your stay, making it easy to get out on the water.

Windham

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Take a three-hour road trip from New York City to this mountain town, which is known as the “Gem of the Catskills” and welcomes adventurers with its multitude of endorphin-producing activities. At Windham Mountain Club, year-round fun can be found in the form of hiking, fly fishing, or mountain biking in summer, and skiing and snowboarding in winter. Surrounded by forests on all sides, the area is also a foliage lover’s dream come fall.

The charming Main Street holds inviting boutiques, bistros, and galleries for non-outdoorsy diversions. As for where to stay, book a room at the Wylder Windham. A Catskills classic since 1880, the Travel + Leisure World’s Best Award-winning property on the Batavia Kill River features a pickleball court, heated pool, wood-fired sauna, and activities like s’mores bars and beer tastings.

Beacon

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Beacon is a fitting name for this city along the banks of the Hudson River. As the home of Dia Beacon, this community draws art aficionados from all over to view the museum’s celebrated contemporary art collection, as well as catch special exhibits and installations. While the museum is exceptional, it’s not the only reason to head up the Hudson from NYC.

The magnetic Main Street boasts many other galleries, as well as coffee shops, breweries, and antique stores. Balance out all the art and culture with some outdoor pursuits like trekking to the top of Mount Beacon or going on a boat tour to Pollepel Island (known locally as Bannerman Island), which Indigenous communities believed was haunted by hostile spirits.

Conesus Lake

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Located in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York, Conesus Lake is the westernmost of the area’s 11 elongated waterways. Crowds flock here each summer for swimming, boating, and fishing, as well as the annual “Ring of Fire” tradition. Dating back to when the Indigenous Seneca Nation would light fires along the shore, the custom now takes place on the evening of July 3, with thousands of flares illuminating the lake’s periphery in a glowing ring as fireworks explode overhead.

On top of outdoor adventure—which includes hikes like the Conesus Inlet Trail—discover the area’s thriving art scene along the Inspirations Trail. Spanning nine villages across Livingston County, this 90-mile self-guided route takes you to numerous colorful murals and public art installations for photo opportunities and fun sightseeing. At the end of the day, head to the tiny hamlet of Lakeville for a refreshing beer at little Lake Brewing, one of 12 craft breweries, wineries, and distilleries along the Livingston Libation Loop, or grab a glass of wine at Deer Run Winery.

Cooperstown

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Baseball enthusiasts will likely know this quaint upstate village as the home of the National Baseball Hall of Fame, and Cooperstown has plenty to keep fans of America’s Favorite Pastime happy, from visiting Doubleday Field and hunting for memorabilia to checking out the Cooperstown Bat Factory. But “America’s hometown,” as it’s affectionately called, has much more to offer beyond bats and bleachers.

View different expressions of American art, from Indigenous crafts and artifacts to folk art, at the stately Fenimore Art Museum, built on land once owned by novelist James Fenimore Cooper. Catch extravagant productions at the Glimmerglass Festival, which lures opera lovers from far and wide each summer, and peruse galleries and art studios around town. Drive an hour east and you can go caving at Howe Caverns, the biggest cavern in the Northeast, which has walking tours, guided spelunking adventures, and, depending on the season, underground yoga classes.

Letchworth State Park

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With its rocky cliffs and natural splendor, it’s easy to see why Letchworth State Park is known as the “Grand Canyon of the East.” Carved out over centuries by the Genesee River, the park’s impressive gorge boasts three main waterfalls, the Upper, Middle, and Lower Falls, which cascade over shale, siltstone, and sandstone cliffs from heights of up to 600 feet. At various viewpoints throughout the park, like Great Bend Overlook, you’re treated to elevated vistas of the waterfalls, river, and the gorge’s towering walls.

Along with chasing waterfalls, you can go hiking on the park’s 66 miles of trails, cool off on whitewater rafting excursions, and even take a hot air balloon tour for aerial views. There’s also an Autism Nature Trail, the first of its kind in the country. Designed for people on the autism spectrum, the one-mile loop is dotted with eight marked sensory stations for connecting with nature in inclusive, accessible ways.

Ellicottville

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About an hour south of Buffalo by car, this quaint village in the foothills of the Allegheny Mountains exudes charm, as evidenced by the well-preserved and restored homes and buildings dating back to the 19th century. Take a stroll around the photogenic downtown area—the village spans just one square mile, so you’re mere minutes from everything—to admire the architecture and check out the town’s cafes, breweries, shops, and restaurants.

It’s also where western New York sports enthusiasts and skiers go to mountain bike, hike, or slalom down the 60 trails and slopes at neighboring Holiday Valley Resort. Nearby Allegany State Park is another great spot to get outdoors, with hiking, camping, and leaf peeping in the fall.

Seneca Falls

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Situated at the northern end of Cayuga Lake—the longest of the Finger Lakes—Seneca Falls has two major claims to fame. For one, this historic spot is believed to be the inspiration for the town of Bedford Falls in Frank Capra’s 1946 classic, “It’s a Wonderful Life.” Along with a museum dedicated to the film, Seneca Falls celebrates its cinematic association with an annual festival each December, featuring parades, appearances by cast members, film screenings, and holiday concerts.

Most notably, though, this was the site of the Seneca Falls Convention in 1848—the first convention for women’s rights and the birthplace of the women’s rights movement. Each July, the town commemorates the occasion with the Convention Days event at the Women’s Rights National Historical Park. You can also toast to the suffragettes while wine tasting along one of the many nearby Finger Lakes wine trails, like the Seneca Lake Wine Trail.

Skaneateles

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Meaning “long lake” in Iroquoian, this affluent upstate town is another popular spot in the Finger Lakes for wine tasting, watersports, and catching the changing colors in fall. If you’re planning to be in the area for the “It’s a Wonderful Life” festival in Seneca Falls, you can make a holiday road trip out of it with Skaneateles’ Dickens Christmas celebration. Starting around Thanksgiving and running until Christmas, this annual event features live entertainment, horse and wagon rides, and a cast of Dickensian characters roaming the streets.

With numerous launch sites, a sailing club, and a yearly antique and classic boat show, boating is a popular way to enjoy the water here. But the region is also a favorite among avid cyclists, who come to pedal the paths and roads around the lake. Whether by car or bike, follow the Loop the Lake route to visit different points of interest like parks, waterfalls, hiking areas, vineyards, restaurants, and shops.

Lake George

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From leaf peeping in the fall to sailing in the summer, this idyllic lake and its waterfront town in the Adirondacks draw crowds throughout the year to enjoy the great outdoors. But, it’s also where you’ll find one of the most unique things to do in upstate New York: scuba diving.

Reaching depths of up to 200 feet, Lake George is one of the few New York state lakes where you can go scuba diving. Certified divers can explore a variety of 18th-century shipwrecks along the lake bottom, including the Land Tortoise, North America’s oldest intact warship. Above the waves, vacationers can also enjoy the lake with boat cruises—including sailing on The Mohican, America’s oldest continually operating tour boat—and other watersports. While the crowds can get thick in summer, there’s plenty of winter fun to be had as well, including ice fishing and a family-focused carnival every February.

Saranac Lake

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The Adirondack Mountains have beckoned to city dwellers for centuries, including tycoons like the Guggenheims and Vanderbilts, who owned rustic yet luxurious compounds known as the Great Camps. At The Point—a former Rockefeller Great Camp—you can get a taste of the Gilded Age luxury lifestyle with all-inclusive stays that harken back to that time, complete with black-tie dinners.

Along with the affluent, this area in the Adirondacks also attracted people looking to improve their health. In the late 1800s, the nearby village of Saranac Lake was home to one of the first sanatoriums in the United States, where those suffering from tuberculosis came to recover in the fresh air and peaceful environment. Today, visitors can experience Saranac Lake’s restorative nature for themselves with outdoor activities like hiking, cycling, and boating, along with in-town diversions like shopping, dining, and browsing art galleries.

Ithaca

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Not only is Ithaca a top-notch college town, home to esteemed institutions like Cornell University and Ithaca College, but it’s also a natural wonderland. The surrounding forests are filled with breathtaking gorges, parks, and scenic cascades like Taughannock Falls, which, at 215 feet, is three stories taller than Niagara Falls.

There’s an abundance of activities around the city, too, including the free-of-charge Cornell Botanic Gardens, boat tours on Cayuga Lake, wine trails, and a self-guided Discovery Trail that highlights local history, art, and science. Thanks to Ithaca College’s renowned performing arts programs, you’ll find tons of shows and cultural events throughout the year. Rumor has it that the town was also the birthplace of the ice cream sundae. Whether that’s true or not, Ithaca has plenty of spots to satisfy your sweet tooth, like Purity Ice Cream Co., which dates from 1936.

Watkins Glen and Montour Falls

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Upstate New York has no shortage of waterfalls, but these two neighboring towns at the southern end of Seneca Lake—separated by a scenic wildlife management area in the middle—are close to some of the most captivating in the region. In nearby Watkins Glen State Park, 19 waterfalls cascade elegantly down a narrow canyon, whose stone bridges and water-carved walls feel like something out of a fantasy book. In Montour Falls, just walking around town brings you face-to-face with multiple waterfalls, including Aunt Sarah’s Falls and Shequaga Falls.

Racing fans will also want to visit the area thanks to Watkins Glen International. From the Grand Prix to NASCAR to Formula One, some of auto racing’s biggest events have been held at this legendary track.

Saratoga Springs

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Saratoga Springs is a popular vacation destination for good reason. There’s something classically old-school about spending a day at the famous Saratoga Race Course—a storied track that has hosted the likes of Triple Crown-winner American Pharoah—or at Saratoga Spa State Park, a National Historic Landmark.

You can dive more into the region’s racing history at the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame, and indulge in some hydrotherapy courtesy of the area’s mineral springs at the Roosevelt Baths & Spa. The art scene is solid, too, with impressive productions at the Saratoga Performing Arts Center, which is home to multiple venues, including an outdoor amphitheater and the Spa Little Theater.

Thousand Islands

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Although the name of this border-spanning archipelago in the St. Lawrence River is Thousand Islands, Two Thousand Islands would be more accurate. Over 1,800 islands, big and small, make up this dazzling region along the U.S.-Canada border, which is home to castles, grand mansions, state parks, and lighthouses.

Set sail on a boat tour for an island-hopping itinerary to see the sights—especially one of the most spectacular castles on American soil, Boldt Castle—and learn more about the region’s fascinating history, from being a getaway for the well-to-do to serving as a hideout for pirates. On the nearby mainland, check out towns like Clayton and Cape Vincent. Or stop by Sackets Harbor, which has been designated a New York State Heritage Area.

Pittsford

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Located on the banks of the historic Erie Canal, Pittsford charms visitors with its waterfront parks and walkways and historic downtown full of antique stores and boutiques. After a day perusing the shops or taking a cruise along the canal, pick an eatery on Schoen Place to enjoy waterway views while dining, then line up for homemade ice cream at Pittsford Farms Dairy & Bakery.

You can also pop over to neighboring Mendon Ponds Park for cycling, hiking, and kayaking, or head into nearby Rochester, about 15 minutes away by car, to The Strong National Museum of Play. Great for kids and adults thanks to its mix of interactive and traditional exhibits, this museum is dedicated to “the history and exploration of play,” and boasts fascinating collections like the National Toy Hall of Fame.

Ausable Chasm

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Hailed as the Grand Canyon of the Adirondacks, Ausable Chasm is one of America’s oldest organized natural attractions. Since 1870, visitors have flocked to this 500-million-year-old sandstone gorge to marvel at its sheer walls and dramatic scenery. The best way to appreciate the full scope of the gorge is by floating through it on a raft or tube, but there are also hiking trails like the Riverwalk.

While you’re in the area, it’s also worth stopping into the North Star Underground Railroad Museum, which is just a stone’s throw away from the chasm. Here, you can learn more about the Champlain Line of the Underground Railroad through stories from slaves seeking freedom across the nearby Canadian border.

Buffalo

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Don’t write off Buffalo just because of its infamous winter weather. The city continues to evolve as a tourism destination, with many enticing attractions for art and architecture fans.

For one, design enthusiasts will find several Frank Lloyd Wright-designed properties around town, most notably the Martin House estate. Spanning multiple former residences, this National Historic Landmark is a sublime example of Prairie architecture and is considered one of Wright’s great achievements. Visitors can also ride on a historic carousel, which was restored and outfitted to run on solar power, at the Buffalo Waterfront, and stroll the galleries of the Buffalo AKG Art Museum.

Lake Placid

Courtesy of Lake Placid Lodge

This village and lake in the Adirondacks are best known for hosting the 1932 and 1980 Winter Olympics, and it continues to be a hub for winter sports. Nearby Whiteface Mountain Ski Resort beckons to skiers and snowboarders with its nearly 300 acres of skiable terrain, and trails in the surrounding countryside transform into snowshoe treks during winter. It’s also worth popping into the Lake Placid Olympic Center, where you can learn about the games at the Olympic Museum, skate on actual Olympic rinks, or join a Stick N’ Puck session to try your hand at hockey.

But Lake Placid also shines during the warm weather months. Swim and SUP in the lake’s refreshing waters, go whitewater rafting, or bike along the Adirondack Rail Trail, a 34-mile route linking Lake Placid with nearby communities. After full days on the water or out in the mountains, return to cozy cabins and dreamy vistas at the waterfront, Great Camps-inspired Lake Placid Lodge.



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A 37 Mile Day in the Sierra Mountains

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This morning when I woke up at my tent site I was feeling so much better. I still had the slight tinge of a headache initially when I woke up. But I took some ibuprofen with my morning coffee and was feeling 100% by the time I packed up and left camp. I had about 10 miles to go before I would come to the junction for Cottonwood trailhead. That’s where OutsideJay left my bear can and all of my food.

It was a beautiful thing starting the morning at high elevation. I didn’t have much more climbing to do over those next couple of hours. I mostly just went up and down mildly along ridge lines. I watched the most beautiful sunrise and remembered all of the amazing mornings that I spent here in the Sierra in 2022. It was a ghost town in October when I was here previously.

My first sunrise in the Sierra.

It’s usually recommended to get out of the Sierra and to Kennedy Meadow south by the first or second week of October. That’s just a safety recommendation to avoid getting caught in the high mountains when snow comes. But I remember getting to Kennedy Meadows south for their Halloween party. I got really lucky.

A beautiful start to the day.

The trail was nice and easy this morning. I was making great time. I felt like my head was in a bit of a daze still, likely due to the change in altitude. Typically, I’ll feel a bit tired or out of it for the first 24 hours or so. Then the more time that I spend at higher elevation, I typically start to feel very strong. And lucky for me, that’s the way it went this time around as well. After a few hours of walking, I started feeling really good. I felt the fog lift, and I was definitely more clearheaded. For the rest of the day I felt basically completely normal.

It was so early when I came to the junction for Cottonwood. This time going through the Sierra, I’m avoiding any side trails if I can. That means carrying more food and resupplying less frequently. Most of the towns you can hitch into in the Sierra involve adding significant mileage and elevation gain and loss. Cottonwood is a nice middle ground. I was able to have a light pack yesterday and for most of this morning. And going down to the trailhead and back up to the trail only adds a mile and a half and maybe 500 feet of elevation gain. In the end, I think it’s definitely worth it so that I could acclimate yesterday. Though I’m sure coming up from the parking area in a bit is going to be rough.

Jay had told me that I would get service before dropping down to the trailhead. He sent me photos of specifically where he had put my food. The camping area has tons of bear boxes so it would’ve been helpful to know which one it was in. But I never did wind up getting service. Instead, I just made my way down to the parking area and hoped for the best. When I looked around and noticed the 50+ bear boxes in the surrounding area, though, I became a bit nervous. Jay had given me a rough idea of where the canister would be, so I just headed in that direction and started looking in every box. Right as I was starting to get a bit anxious, I opened one and found my bear canister and box of food.

Views as I continued climbing up and past chicken spring lake.

The only bear canister that can fit in my small backpack is the bear vault 450. So in addition to fitting that into my backpack, I also had an additional 2–3 days of food that didn’t fit into the bear canister. Luckily in this area, you don’t need to store your food in the canister throughout the day. You just need to properly store your food at night. So today I’m going to hike as many miles as I need to in order to get to a campsite that has a bear box. That way I can properly store my food and don’t have to worry about it.

I wound up having to leave probably 1500 more calories behind in the box at the campground. I filled every single pocket of my backpack and shoved food into every last nook and cranny. Then eventually it was full to capacity and I couldn’t fit another bar. I’m just hoping that this will actually be enough food to get me where I need to go. As of now I’m planning to get more food at VVR, a resupply location just off the trail.

I’m so excited to continue further into The Sierra. It’s been so beautiful already.

I was in and out of the parking area surprisingly quick. Then got back to the trail and began climbing up Cottonwood pass. If I had stayed on the red line, I would’ve had a 500 or so foot climb regardless. Now I had to climb a little over 1000 feet to make up for the descent down to the parking area. I figured it was going to be rough going with how heavy my backpack was. It was incredibly heavy. I honestly can’t remember a time that I’ve ever carried this much food or weight. Typically as a rule of thumb, I say that my backpack can only fit 5 1/2 days of food. This time around, I’m stretching that out a bit in hopes of avoiding getting off trail to resupply at inconvenient locations.

Between the six days of food, the bear canister, and the 2 L of water, I was really feeling the weight of my pack. But surprisingly as I began making my way up Cottonwood pass, I felt really strong. Any tiredness that I had felt yesterday from adjusting to the change in altitude had faded away. I wound up passing a bunch of people as I made my way up to the top of the pass. It felt really good to feel strong again.

The climb went on for about 2–3 miles and it certainly wasn’t as bad as I expected. It was steep at times, but overall it was fairly gradual. Once I got up to the top, I reconnected to the PCT and then continued on to chicken spring lake. At the time, I didn’t realize that this was the last water source for the foreseeable future. Luckily, I still had a lot because I decided to bypass the lake on a whim. The trail would still get some views of the lake as I continued to climb a bit more. But it was early in the day and I had a ways to go. I just didn’t want to stop off and kill any more time. Even though the lake seemed like a beautiful break spot.

Getting passed by some horses and mules.

After climbing a bit further, I got up to the top and the next couple of hours would be nice and easy. There wasn’t much elevation gain remaining for the day until I would drop down to the bottom of the valley. Over the next hour or two I passed by a bunch of hikers who are doing the John Muir Trail. One of the ways around getting permits for Whitney portal when doing the John Muir Trail, is getting a permit for Cottonwood pass where I just was. It can be really difficult to get Whitney portal permits so it seems like the majority of people opted to enter Cottonwood and add a little bit of mileage.

It was pretty much every hikers first day, which was exciting to see. Most of the guys that I went past were able to guess that I was a thru hiker almost immediately. The Sierra is a hard stretch of trail. But PCT hikers have the luxury of a 700 mile warm up first. And the difference is noticeable.

Time went by pretty quickly over those next few hours. I was passed by a group of men on horses with mules. They just finished out a week trip near the Whitney area. It seems like they had facilitated bringing in the gear for hikers. I didn’t get the impression that it was a vacation for them, more like their job.

I ate as much as I could as I continued along this downhill stretch. And just like yesterday, by the afternoon it was growing incredibly hot. The further I went downhill the more it warmed up as well. That’s been a tough trend the last two days.

Entering Sequoia and Kings Canyon national Park.

As I was approaching the next water source and was still about 11 miles out from camp for the night I was feeling quite tired. It just felt like a very long way to go for the day and the heat had me very sleepy. I planned to fill up on water and then continue on for the rest of the day. If I reached my intended campsite, it would wind up being a 37 mile day though. Which is definitely going to help me in the long run and will set me up for getting to my next resupply location at a good time.

When I got to that next water source a couple hikers were heading out. I sat down and didn’t even notice that there were two hikers across from me. It was a guy and a girl and I heard the guy say something like “is that who I think it is” Which initially had me assuming that it was a complete stranger who recognized me off the Internet. I was wearing sunglasses and the section of trail we were on was pretty shaded. So I couldn’t see incredibly well. But when I took my sunglasses off, I realized it was Queen Liz! A hiker who I hiked about 800 miles with on the PCT in 2022.

Queen Liz! Aka Leo. What a small world we live in.

Then, while he was hiking the Appalachian Trail last year, he stayed at my house in Philadelphia for a handful of day as he recovering from an ankle injury. He had been planning on doing the Appalachian trail and the continental divide trail in 2024. At the time we had thought we were going to run into each other on the CDT, but his ankle injury really never healed well.

Now here we are, in the middle of nowhere in the Sierra. And we’re both running into each other by pure luck? It’s always so wild how things play out on trail. He was out doing the section from Mount Whitney to Kearsarge pass with his girlfriend Chase. It was really nice to meet her and it was so cool to talk with him. It’s been way too long.

Before running into him, I was feeling tired and didn’t have a lot of energy left for the day. But chatting with the two of them and hanging out for a bit got me good to go. Unfortunately, he only planned to do another mile for the day. And I planned to do 11 more. At first, I thought he had said he was planning on camping at the same place that I was. But if I was only going to be out in the Sierra for a week, I would probably do shorter days and get to camp earlier as well.

We walked together for the next mile until we came to a beautiful river with tent spots and bear boxes. That’s where him and his girlfriend planned to camp for the night so he could fish for trout in the stream. I was feeling so much better at this point and was ready to roll out the next 11 miles. So I said goodbye to the two of them and continued on. The next few miles held a fairly steep climb, just short a 1500 feet. But after that, the remainder of the day would be relatively easy.

The trail walked me through a wide open valley near the turnoff of for Mount Whitney.

The climb wasn’t as bad as I imagined, and it actually leveled out about halfway in between the bottom and the top. Then I got to walk through a valley briefly before finishing out the last of the climb. I was feeling really good once I got up top and began descending. And the trail would be primarily downhill for the rest of the day. With the occasional short climb in between.

I wound up running into another hiker, who thought that I was someone else. I asked if they had seen any other PCT hikers and he informed me that he had been passed by Hillbilly about two hours ago. I met Hillbilly at Kennedy Meadow South. So it’s exciting to think that I’ll catch up to him either this evening or tomorrow. He left KMS the day before me, so I figured it would take another day or two at least to gain on him. It sounds like he’s trying to do 25–30 mile days.

By the time I was up at the top of that climb, I only had about 7 miles left for the day. And about an hour later, I passed the junction for Mount Whitney. There’s a campsite there that a lot of people use as a base camp. There were tons of tents set up when I went by. But this time around it’s just not in the cards for me to do Whitney. I’ve done it before and I would love to do it again. But I’m already carrying so much food and time is of the essence this year.

It wound up being a really nice end of the day. I’m always proud when I push on to my intended campsite, even when I’m tired.

The bugs were pretty bad when I passed that campsite and continued along the trail. But luckily, I only had a few miles left for the day. As I got closer and closer to my destination, I definitely started considering stopping off a little bit earlier. It still would’ve been a really long day either way. And I knew I had to do one last short climb before dropping down to the river where that would be tenting for the night.

I was just feeling lazy after a long day of walking. I passed by a couple water sources and looked around to see if there was tenting nearby. But there was nothing good so I forced myself to continue on. Sometimes I get the urge when I’m 30+ miles into a day to call it quits a bit early. But I’m always very glad when I don’t. This time was no different.

The remaining climb wasn’t too bad and I got up top pretty quickly. Then ran into a group of hikers as I began descending. One of them was named Bean Sprout and she recognized me from my videos. She was hiking with her boyfriend and two friends, and they were headed to the same camping area. At this point I was pretty excited to get to camp for the night so I kept moving at a good pace. Then dropped down to the river right around 7 PM. Maybe a little bit after.

I had read comments on far out, saying that this area had insanely bad mosquitoes. And those comments were incredibly true. I was swarmed immediately, but luckily took my pack off and put my wind gear on and my head net. At least once all of that is on the bugs can’t get to me, so I really don’t mind them. I just have to check to make sure I’m not getting bit on my hands. That’s the only portion of skin that’s still exposed when I’m wearing all my gear.

I got my tent set up and pulled out all my food. Then got everything organized and sorted and headed down to the river to grab some water. People often complain about mosquitoes when they’re at camp for the night. But I don’t really mind mosquitoes at the end of the day. I plan on spending the whole evening in my tent, relaxing, and eating anyway. So it doesn’t make a big difference to me if the bugs are out at the end of the day. I really only mind mosquitoes when they’re attacking me while I’m hiking. That can become pretty irritating.

I wound up having a mountain house meal for dinner. This one was the cheesy beef enchilada, another of their newer meals. More recently they came out with three new meals and I’ve now tried all of them. This one tasted really good and the smell was pretty nostalgic for me.

After eating dinner, I had some snacks and got everything put away. Then did a little bit of writing and video work before getting comfortable for the night. I figure that there will be a couple days on this section where I’m able to get some voice to texting. Just because there will be long segments of downhill coming off these mountain passes. A lot of the trail won’t be gradual enough to multitask. But I’m sure I’ll be able to find some moments. Today I wound up doing just shy of 37 miles with 5700 feet of elevation gain. And I set myself up very well to climb Forester pass tomorrow. I’m about 9 miles away, so not incredibly close. But I’ll at least be able to climb the mountain relatively early in the morning tomorrow.

If you enjoyed this blog and would like to support my hike by buying me a soda or a snack along the way, there is a “Tip the Author” button below! It links directly to my Venmo. Any and all support is incredibly appreciated!





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Day 34: Slug water & Road beers

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It felt like the trail’s been taking, but it gave back tenfold today. My day was full and wide and left me inspired, though sore. 

We woke up determined to make up the miles we’d missed the day prior due to thunder storms. 

We decided to hike a minimum of 31 miles. 

We woke up early enough to catch the sunrise. I’d been justifying my late starts for weeks now, but, staring down a glowy mountain pass I could no longer deny the truth I’d always known; alpine starts are the way. 

sunrise

We climbed up a scree-ey ridge in a pleasantly cool weather window. No sun beating down our backs, yet. 

We eventually made our way to a dirt road that would lead us to an important spring, the first water in 10 miles. We found a cairn and wandered through a bog looking for the water source before realizing the bog was the source. 

I filtered my water, chugging greedily without looking closely as we charged down trail. I stopped to examine my bottle and noticed something small and brown swimming around. 

Reader, there was a live slug in my bottle. There were no nearby water sources, so Beaker helped me remove the slug and I, unfortunately, had to keep drinking from it. 

not thriving with my slug water

As we walked the dirt road, a camper van pulled over offering us cold beers from the window. The older couple pulled over, offering us two cold glasses and waited for us to finish them to take the glass back. 

“I used to be like you” the man said, gesturing to our packs. He told us he’d hiked a portion of the Appalachian Trail in the 90’s. He marveled at our light gear and trail shoes, remarking how far gear has advanced since he backpacked. 

Because we were slightly calorie deprived, and very dehydrated, the single beers had us feeling tipsier than anticipated. 

I felt grateful for the mixed terrain when we made it back to trail. Some road walking, combined with rolling green pastures and towering forested passes made for a beautiful, interesting day. 

22 miles into the day we were staring down a dirt road that looked to be about ninety degrees. 

“Do we go up that…?” I asked Beaker. 

“Oh yeah.” he said. 

The climbing lasted for what felt like forever, and I was rethinking our resolve to hike so many miles. 

At the top of the climb we sat to eat cold ramen. I could feel my body/tendons stiffen the longer I sat, but the food revived me and I felt ready to follow true on our promise of big miles. 

The push was worth it. We hiked green pastures beside curious cows, the sky turning bright orange and casting interesting hues against layers of mountains surrounded us on all sides. 

bye, sun

The sun made its languid exit, and we had about 5 miles of night hiking ahead of us. We pulled out our headlamps and it occurred to me I hadn’t checked the battery on my lamp in months!

We entered a dark forest that felt still in the quiet of night. 

“I forgot night hiking’s kind of scary” Beaker said. I laughed, as I’d been thinking the same thing. 

We decided to make it to the next water source, which would cap our day at 35 miles. We exited the forest, finding ourselves beneath an open and starry sky. We saw the shadowy outline of looming mountains in the darkness around the sage field we stood in. 

We set up our tent in the only flat spot we could find. My legs twitched as I lay on my sleeping pad, lids closing quickly. I listened to the crickets and felt proud. Like if I could trust myself to follow through on 35 miles, I could trust myself to do anything. 

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Top 10 lesser-known destinations in South Korea

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A vibrant destination known for rich culture, modern attractions, and natural landscapes, South Korea offers a diverse range of experiences with plenty of hidden gems to satisfy the wanderlust of even the most seasoned traveller.

While frequently visited for Seoul and Jeju Island, South Korea has a lot more to offer travellers. Here is a look at 10 lesser-known destinations in the one of the most-visited destinations in Asia and the Pacific.

Gyeongju

Tumuli Gongwon.

Travellers can take in the rich history of South Korea in Gyeongju. Also known as the ‘museum without walls’, the city is rich in temples, tombs, and historical attractions. It also served as the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Silla, making it a historically important city for South Korea.

One of its most popular attractions is Tumuli Gongwon, or the Daereungwon Tomb Park, which was used as the cemetery for royals during the Silla dynasty. The grassy hills provide a calm contrast to what they actually contain. Travellers can enjoy the natural scenery while also taking in part of South Korea’s history and seeing the extravagance of the buried royals.

Other must-see places in Gyeongju include the 1,000-year-old Buddha of Seokguram Grotto, a granite sculpture showcasing extraordinary craftsmanship. The Seokguram Grotto is part of the Bulguksa Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site that features traditional Korean architecture.

The Cheomseongdae Observatory is another part of Korea’s history as it dates back to the 7th century and is one of the oldest surviving observatories in Asia. Finally, travellers in Gyeongju must also visit the Woljeonggyo Bridge, the largest wooden bridge in Korea offering a truly unique photo opportunity, for free!

Tongyeong

Another city rich in natural landscapes, cultural experiences, and exciting activities, Tongyeong is located four hours from Seoul by bus or train. Travellers can take in the scenery by riding the Tongyeong Cable Car, the longest in Korea at 18.8km. It takes travellers up Mireuksan Mountain and offers views of the city, harbour, and natural landscapes.  Once at the top, they can explore the Mireuksan Mountain Observatory with its high-powered telescopes and 360-degree view of the area.

Nature lovers can head out to Jeodo Island, just off the coast of Tongyeong, known for its rugged coastline and natural beauty. Activities here include hiking the many trails to enjoy the breathtaking views and enjoying the many beaches by swimming, scuba diving, or even fishing.

Tongyeong Cable Car.

On the culinary side, foodies can enjoy local delicacies all over Tongyeong. As a coastal city, there are plenty of restaurants that offer fresh and delicious dishes that can satisfy that palate of every traveller. A must-try dish is ‘sannakji’, or live octopus cut into pieces and served immediately.

Other attractions include the Tongyeong Art Center, a cultural melting pot for local artists; Daraengi Village, a small fishing village where travellers can enjoy seafood; Nammangsan Sculpture Park, an outdoor park offering views of the nearby mountains and ocean which is home to sculptures from Korean and International artists; and Dongpirang Wall Painting Village, home to local galleries and studios showcasing various artworks.

Suncheon

Suncheon, a Korean UNESCO World Network of Biosphere Reserve, is known for its ecological beauty, historical temples, and vibrant street markets. Travellers can take in its natural beauty at the Suncheon Bay Wetland Reserve, which features brackish water zones, salt marshes, reed beds, and home to hundreds of species of birds. Depending on the season, travellers can enjoy the reserve differently.

Naganeupseong Nagan Folk Village.

Naganeupseong Folk Village provides travellers a look into Korea’s history as it dates back to the Baekjae period. Houses in the village feature chogaijip – rice straw thatched roof, which are influenced by Joseon-era architecture.

Songgwangsa Temple, a key Buddhist temple in Korea, is a historic site with a wooder altar featuring a triad of Buddhas. A unique experience offered at the temple are templestay programs, where travellers can participate in morning and evening chanting services with the monastic community.

Another temple, Seonamsa Temple, offers travellers a look into Korea’s natural beauty and escape from city life. It is located just a short walk from a car park, where along the way travellers can see two bridges. The Seung-seon Bridge is the National Treasure No. 400 of South Korea and is a popular filming spot for Korean television shows and movies.

Travellers can also enjoy hiking in Bonghwasan Mountain, relaxing in Jorye Lake Park, and enjoying the sun in Hwapo Beach.

Damyang

Damyang is a tourism hub that international travellers probably have never heard of. It is known for lush natural beauty, making it an ideal destination for nature-lovers, hikers, and the like. The Damnyang Metasequoia-lined Road is a perfect example of this, with its Metasequoia tree-line roads ideal for leisurely strolls and instagram-worthy posts. The region is also home to the Korea Bamboo Museum with a nearby bamboo park and greenhouse to appreciate Korea’s great bamboo.

Travellers can also immerse themselves in local cultures by joining the Damyang Bamboo Festival during spring. This annual event celebrates the natural bamboo forests with various festivities, attractions, and local food and music that travellers can enjoy.

Damyang Metaclockquire Road.

Other nature adventures include the Gwanbangjerim Forest, perfect for an eco-friendly stroll; Geumjeongsan Mountain, home to the Geumjeongsan Fortress built from natureal stones; and the Soswaewon Garden, a perfect destination to unplug and unwind from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Art lovers can visit the Moonlight Art Warehouse to view works made by local artists before enjoying a beverage at the underground cafe.

There are also several temples in Damyang which offer a templestay program where travellers (religious or not) can participate in traditional activities with the local monks. Temples to visit include the Geumseonsa Temple, Soswaewon Temple, Muwisa Temple, and Jungnogwon Shrine.

Jeonju

Jeonju is a city in the heart of South Korea that is best known for its well-preserved hanok (traditional Korean homes) village. The village is the best place to start exploring as travellers can walk the streets and see hundreds of traditional homes. For a complete experience, travellers can rent and wear a traditional hanbok (traditional Korean clothing) while strolling the streets before enjoying a night’s stay in a hanok for a completely immersive experience.

Jeonju Hanok Village.

The city is also filled with street vendors to enjoy local cuisines. Jeonju is also where one of Korea’s most popular dishes, Bibimbap, originated from. Foodies looking to taste authentic cuisine can enjoy this mixed rice dish at many local restaurants and even street food stalls.

Travellers looking to learn more about Korean history and culture can head to the nearby Gyeonggijeon Shrine with its many historical artifacts. Guided tours are available and recommended to get the most out of the visit. The Royal Portrait Museum, located right beside Gyeonggijeon Shrine offers a look into the country’s past with portraits of previous Korean royals. Other attractions in Jeonju include the Traditional Wine Museum, Jeonju Crafts Exhibition Hall, and the Korea Traditional Culture Center.

Chuncheon

Chuncheon is frequently visited for Nami Island, a half-moon-shaped island the made popular by many Korean dramas to locals and tourists. However, there are many other sights and activities in Chuncheon to meet the needs of all travellers.

The Gangchon Rail Park (converted from the Gangchon Station in 2012) provides families a fun activity with rail bikes to ride along the rail lines. They can also rent regular bikes to ride along the bike paths or take a slow-paced stroll with the Bukhan River in view. Travellers can also enjoy canoeing Jungdo Mullegil Trail, another location made popular by Korean dramas. The Hajungdo Eco Park on Hajungdo Island is a good place to have a family picnic and enjoy slow-paced nature activities such as hiking around the island.

Gangchon Rail Park.

Winter activities are also available in Chuncheon with the Elysian Gangchon Ski Resort. The resort offers slopes and ski trails suitable for even beginners and children to let the entire family have fun in the snow.

Also, Chuncheon is home to Korea’s own Legoland, an excellent family vacation destination with a massive playground, rides, shows, and other attractions.

Namwon

Namwon, a small town just less than an hour from Jeonju, hosts many historical and cultural sites to visit. The city, known as Korea’s city of love, got its name from the story Chunhyang – one of Korea’s most famous love stories. The Chunhyang Theme Park commemorates this story with five distinct areas, each dedicated to a part of the story to make it the perfect date place for couples.

Baemsagol Valley in Jirisan National Park.

Nature lovers can head out to Jirisan National Park in Jirisan Mountain, which offers various trails to explore suitable for more seasoned hikers.

From the 15km Cheonwangbong Peak Trail with steep rocks and spectacular views to the Baemsagol Valley Trail that offers serene walks through forested paths. Cultural sites nearby Jirisan National Park include the Samseonggung Shrine, Jirisan History Museum, and a traditional Korean jjimjilbang (hot spring).

Namwon is also filled with various establishments to enjoy local cuisine from bibimbap, galbi tang, and bindaetteok. Must try restaurants include Bongga Myeonok with its cold noodles, Namwon Chunhyang-gol Saejip known for its loach, and Busanjib with its array of seafood items.

Gwangju

Gwangju is a city filled with art and culture. Travellers can visit the Gwangju National Museum with its collection of artifacts and items dating back to the Bronze Age. The museum also features separate spaces for Buddhist art, calligraphy, and ceramics as well as five prehistoric monuments out in the museum grounds.

Nearby, the Gwangju Museum of Art is home to a large collection of pieces of Korean and international paintings, calligraphy, illustrations, photography, and other artworks. The museum also has activities for families with a children’s museum with an experience space for hands-on fun. Travellers can also take in more Korean culture at the Asia Culture Center (ACC), Gwangju National Science Museum, and Mudeungsan Jeungsimsa Temple.

Gwangju, South Korea.

In the Deain Market travellers can purchase various fresh produce, crafts, homewares, and other local good. While at Chungjang-ro, the city’s main shopping and entertainment street, is home to a wide selection of clothing stores, restaurants, and karaoke rooms to enjoy modern Korean culture, cuisine, and activities.

Suwon

Suwon, located just a 40min drive or 50min train from Seoul, is known for being enclosed in by the walls of the Hwaseong Fortress. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fortress was built in the 18th century with around 5km of walls still standing today. Travellers can ride a trolly that takes them through the main gates, the royal palace, and the museum or ride a balloon 150m in the air at the Flying Suwon experience, located next to Hwaseong Fortress, to get a bird’s eye view of the area.

Hwaseong Fortress in night Suwon South Korea.

The Suwon Art Village is a perfect location for an afternoon walk to enjoy the local architecture, cafes, and see houses decorated with murals.

Those looking to learn more about Suwon’s history can head to the Suwon Hwaseong Museum. It houses many artifacts and records dating back to the 18th century to satisfy history aficionados.

Foodies can enjoy the popular samgyeopsal (known internationally as Korean barbecue) at Suwon is popular for gui, or traditional Korean food cooked on a grill in the middle of the table. The most popular dish being galbi, barbecued beef short rib marinated in soy sauce, sugar, garlic, and onions.

Other attractions in Suwon include the Toilet Museum, built to celebrate the foundation of the World Toilet Association; the Suwon World Cup Stadium, built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup; and Everland, the largest theme park in South Korea with numerous rides, attractions, and activities.

Changwon

The coastal city of Changwon was South Korea’s first planned city and modeled after the Australian capital, Canberra. It offers a more modern atmosphere with tall buildings and modernised areas while still giving a taste of local culture. During spring, travellers can enjoy walking along a cherry-blossom-filled path in the Jinhae district with the Yeojwacheon Starlight Festival taking place at night.

Changwon is also home to Yongji Lake, a famous man-made lake that offers water shows and live music. The Jinhae Inland Water Eco Park lets travellers escape the busy city to take in Korea’s natural beauty. There are various hiking paths, goldfish fishing, and nearby cafes to enjoy a relaxing afternoon. Travellers can also choose to enjoy a local hot spring to release stress and tension from a long day of walking and other activities.

Changwon cherry blossoms.

What is a vacation without taking something home for family and friends? Changwon is home to the LOTTE Mart, the go-to shopping place for Korean treats. There are also other stores to purchase clothing, food, and other goods to help travellers bring a piece of Korea with them home.



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