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7 Days in the Algarve

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Seaside villages, natural wonders, delicious food…there’s just so much to love about the Algarve, Portugal. Justin and I spent an amazing week in the Algarve for our honeymoon. We’re pleased to share our Algarve Portugal itinerary with you, whether you’re looking to plan your honeymoon or an awesome getaway with your partner or your friend group.

We based ourselves in Lagos and took day trips to other towns and villages in the Algarve. It’s essential to rent a car in order to experience the best of the Algarve. We’ll show you exactly where we stayed and everything we did over the course of the week in this Algarve travel guide.

Want a few quick pointers about visiting the Algarve? Check my quick tips and recommendations! For those who want all the details, keep reading!

Quick Guide to the Algarve

Here are some of the best tours, activities, attractions and lodging in the Algarve. If you’re planning your trip at the last minute and you’re looking for must do activities, look no further!

Best Tours and Activities in Reykjavik

Best Hotels and Accommodation

Where to Stay in the Algarve, Portugal

Justin and I stayed for one week at Casa Aurora in Lagos. For us, this was the perfect place to stay in Lagos and I can’t imagine spending our honeymoon anywhere else.

Lagos is the perfect home base. There’s so much to see and do right in Lagos. Plus, it’s stunning! Then, we ventured to other places in the Algarve for day trips.

Casa Aurora is a luxury apartment perched at the edge of Dona Ana Beach. The apartment comes with its own private balcony (that’s so spacious!), access to the swimming pool for a small fee, and easy access to the beach down below. Due to the natural landscape of Lagos, there is a staircase leading down to the beach.

This is a massive apartment with so many luxurious amenities. There are two bedrooms, two full bathrooms, a huge kitchen with every appliance imaginable, a living room, a laundry room and more.

We walked from this apartment on the boardwalk trail to Ponta da Piedade and into the Old Town. It’s situated inside a local apartment complex, so you’ll feel like you live here…if only temporarily! This place books up fast, be warned. Book your stay here.

More Places to Stay in Lagos

Looking for more places to stay? Feel free to use this handy map to find more properties. Add your travel dates for more precise information. Click on each property to see photos, learn more, and book your stay.

Getting Around the Algarve

We flew direct to Faro, Portugal from Edinburgh. If your home destination doesn’t fly directly to Faro, you may have a connection in Lisbon first. Another option is flying to Lisbon, renting a car there, and driving down to Lagos.

When we flew home, we drove up to Lisbon and flew home directly to Toronto. So, there are a couple of options to fly to/from the Algarve.

Here’s where you can find great prices on flights to Faro or great prices on flights to Lisbon. Next, pick up your rental car at the airport, depending on where you fly.

Public transportation exists in the Algarve, but it isn’t the fastest or most convenient choice. With only a week in the Algarve, we did not want to waste hours on buses getting from place to place.

For this Algarve Portugal itinerary, rent a car and drive everywhere on your own. Some places are quite remote and not really accessible by public transit. It’s also essential to choose an accommodation that includes a parking space, such as the one we recommended above.

We use Discover Cars anytime we rent a car when traveling. You can compare rates between multiple companies to find the best price. Plus, they have great customer service and we’ve always had a positive experience. Find your rental car in Faro or find your rental car in Lisbon.

Algarve Portugal Itinerary: Day 1

It’s the first full day in the Algarve and we’re staying put in Lagos. Since it’s the first day of our trip, we’re going to ease into our holiday and spend the day enjoying the beach.

Beach Day in Lagos

People flock to the Algarve for the beautiful beaches. There are plenty of beaches to enjoy in Lagos. It’s best to visit in the summer for beach weather. When we visited in mid-October, it was a little bit too cold to swim. Just keep that in mind.

The beach closest to our accommodation was Praia Dona Ana. There are beaches all along the coast near the boardwalk trail that runs to the end of the peninsula, Ponta da Piedade. Some of the best beaches on this stretch are:

  • Praia do Pinhão
  • Praia Dona Ana
  • Praia do Camilo

Praia dos Estudantes is also close by. This is a unique small beach that has a manmade bridge connecting two rock formations.

The beach that’s closest to the old town is Praia da Batata. It’s near some restaurants and the Batata Beach Bar.

The restaurant, Take a Bao – Asian Street Food, was one of our favorites with delicious fare and refreshing local beer. This is a short distance from Batata Beach, located just across the street.

To the south of the town of Lagos, there are two popular beaches along one lengthy stretch of sand: Porto Mós Beach and Praia do Canavial. These are popular for both swimming and surfing.

And finally, if you enjoy having your space, there’s a massive beach to the east of Lagos called Meia Praia. There’s 2.5 miles of expansive sand in close proximity to little beach bars and shacks.

Dune Beach is part of Meia Praia. It’s possible to take a small boat from the middle of Lagos across the channel to this beach. This is a calm beach with shallow waters.

Algarve Portugal Itinerary: Day 2

Now that we’re all settled into our stay and gotten over the jetlag, it’s time to explore. I’ll make some suggestions on how to spend an amazing day in Lagos. For more recommendations and a deeper dive, I suggest reading my blog post all about spending a day in Lagos.

Ponta da Piedade in Lagos

Walking the boardwalk to Ponta da Piedade is one of the best things to do in Lagos, if not the best. We thoroughly enjoyed this scenic stroll with one incredible view after another.

The boardwalk is located at the top of the cliffs. There are many scenic viewpoints on the way. Then, there are staircases leading down to beaches and alternate views of the rock formations.

Justin and I marveled at the reddish-orange rock formations on the coastline, as well as the rocks poking out of the turquoise waters. These rocks are sculpted and carved by the wind and sea. We also explored little coves and beaches on the way.

The hike ends at the Ponta da Piedade headland. There are fascinating cliffs to the southeast and southwest, as well as a lighthouse from 1913. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to enter the lighthouse, but it adds to the dramatic scenery.

For an alternate view of Ponta da Piedade, it’s possible to take a boat ride between the rock formations. We saw quite a few boats drifting close to the rocks and between them. Here’s where you can book the Ponta da Piedade boat tour.

Old Town Lagos

Next, walk into Old Town Lagos on the Lagos Promenade that lines the waterfront. Walking from the south end to the north end, we walked past the old medieval castle of Lagos and an old fortress. Then, we walked down the quiet and gently winding streets into Old Town.

Since we stayed in Lagos, we spent many mornings and evenings in Old Town Lagos for the wide variety of dining options. While we walked through Old Town on several occasions, make sure you spend at least one afternoon exploring the streets and dining on the patios.

The green house at Praça Luís de Camões (Luís de Camões Square) is the most famous building to see in the Old Town. This is also a central hub of activity with many streets connecting to the main plaza.

Old Town Lagos is full of colorful murals and street art. We noticed them hidden around every bend. Some covered entire walls and others are bright bursts of color peeking out from behind buildings. 

Whether you stay in Lagos like we did or venture there on a day trip, make sure to visit Lagos for at least one day in your Algarve Portugal itinerary. We really enjoyed making Lagos our home base and wouldn’t hesitate to stay here again.

Algarve Portugal Itinerary: Day 3

It’s day three of our Algarve Portugal itinerary and time to head out of town. Hop in the rental car and head to Ferragudo and Carvoeiro. These two small towns are relatively close to one another, making it easy to see both of them on a day trip.

Ferragudo

We drove to Ferragudo in the morning. Ferragudo is a tiny village in the Algarve that’s super picturesque. Walk around town. It’s really quaint and pretty.

While there aren’t a ton of things to do in Ferragudo, it gives you a taste of the traditional fishing village life in Portugal. Walk from the main square in town and down the cobblestone streets.

Many of the homes are whitewashed, while others have splashes of pastel color. There are flowers growing everywhere. Our walk led us towards the beach, Praia da Angrinha and the hilltop fortress, Castelo de Ferragudo.

Carvoeiro

Justin and I spent the afternoon in Carvoeiro. It’s only about a 15-minute drive from Ferragudo. Carvoeiro is a larger town by comparison to Ferragudo. While it’s possible to see most of Ferragudo in about an hour or two, we spent a half day in Carvoeiro.

Our first order of business was lunch. Earth Shop & Café is a delightful bistro with vegan and vegetarian options. There’s also a small shop inside the restaurant featuring the works of local artisans and locally prepared food products.

After lunch, we walked down to Algar Seco on the western edge of the Carvoeiro Boardwalk. Follow the staircase leading down to the rock formations where there’s a small natural pool in the middle. This isn’t for swimming and the sea is quite choppy here.

We walked on the rocks between some formations carved by the wind. There’s a really beautiful view of the seaside and more rocks to climb, at your own risk.

Back up the staircase, don’t miss Boneca’s Cave. It’s located just beyond a cliffside restaurant. At the end of a small cave, there are two naturally carved windows facing the sea. There might be a small lineup to enter the cave and take photos.

I should also mention that all of these places are free to visit. There’s no entrance fee and you can visit any time of day.

From there, continue walking on the Carvoeiro Boardwalk for gorgeous views of the sea, homes perched on the edge of the cliff, and the beach down below. We continued into town and did a little bit of shopping, including a stop at Loja da Fabrica, a shop selling local ceramic and terracotta wares.

Algarve Portugal Itinerary: Day 4

Today, we are driving a little bit farther than our day trip yesterday. On day four of this Algarve Portugal itinerary, we’ll spend the majority of our day in Tavira with a shorter late afternoon/evening jaunt to Faro. Even though we flew into Faro, we didn’t get to initially spend any time there. Today is the day.

Tavira

Tavira is quite possibly my favorite small town in the Algarve, Portugal. It’s bustling with activity, but we didn’t encounter many crowds. There are enough things to see and do for a half day.

First, walk across Ponte antiga de Tavira (Tavira Old Bridge) and admire the views. The main attraction in Tavira is Castelo de Tavira, castle ruins from the 11th century. It’s free to enter the property and there’s a beautiful garden in the middle of the castle ruins.

Climb the staircases to the top of the ruins for the best views of Tavira. There’s also a beautiful Catholic church nearby, Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo, as well as the Camera Obscura Tavira EYE attraction.

Justin and I walked around a bit on both sides of the river, Rio Gilão. Back on the other side of the river, we stopped for lunch at a charming little spot with a patio, Tavila Café. It’s a vegan-friendly tapas restaurant with hummus, falafel, fried polenta, mushroom empanadas, smoked tofu wraps and more.

Praia do Barril

In the mid-afternoon, we drove south of Tavira to Praia do Barril. This is an expansive beach and it would be easy to spend all day here on a hot, sunny day. It wasn’t terribly warm out, but we wanted to walk the path to the beach and see a unique art installation.

Park near the pedestrian path, Trilho do Barril. We walked Trilho do Barril to the beach, though there is a little tourist train that runs along the length of the path to transport people to and from the beach.

Praia do Barril is one of the best beaches in the Algarve. There are loungers and umbrellas, plus a nearby restaurant and beach bar. We also saw over 200 old, rusty anchors from the discontinued tuna industry.

Cemitério das âncoras, or Cemetery of Anchors, is a tribute to the region’s maritime history where every anchor represents a vessel that once sailed here. On the way back, it started to pour rain, so we quickly hopped on the train to get back to the car!

Faro

Although we flew into the Faro International Airport, we didn’t have the chance to properly discover Faro until day four of this Algarve Portugal itinerary. I will say that if you plan to see Faro properly, I’d arrive a bit earlier than we did.

We missed out on a few things to see and do, simply because they had closed by the time we arrived. We didn’t get the chance to visit the Chapel of Bones of Faro, a little dose of “dark tourism” in Faro as it’s a chapel featuring over 1000 skulls of Carmelite monks.

Justin and I walked through the city streets, stopping to snap a touristy pic at the Faro sign. Faro is notable for its interesting architecture. We wandered through some of its arches, Arco da Vila and Arco do Repouso, that form part of its original Moorish city walls.

R. de Santo Antonio is one of the main pedestrian shopping streets. For the video game lovers out there, Game Over is a cocktail bar with retro video games, escape games, a karaoke room and yummy drinks.

We had dinner at Pizzeria Bell’Antonio, an Italian pizzeria in the heart of downtown Faro. There are many vegan options for pizza, pasta and garlic bread. I went with the pasta because they don’t have vegan cheese for the pizza (yet!).

Algarve Portugal Itinerary: Day 5

On day five of this Algarve Portugal itinerary, we are spending the day in Albufeira. Many people base themselves in Albufeira because it’s probably the most touristed spot in the Algarve and known for its beaches and nightlife alike. If you decide to stay in Albufeira, spend a couple of days here and take one day trip to Lagos instead (day two of the itinerary).

Albufeira

Justin and I spent one day in Albufeira. The weather wasn’t really cooperating for us that day, so we spent the majority of our time wandering around and dining on a covered patio.

Though Albufeira is known for its nightlife, we aren’t really big into clubbing ourselves. We’re more into pubs and breweries. So, we went back to Lagos in the evening. But, if you’re into the nightlife scene and going clubbing, definitely stick around!

Go for a walk through Albufeira to admire the whitewashed homes and busy plazas. There are rows of restaurants, sports bars, and souvenir shops. It’s probably the most touristy place we visited in the Algarve.

Then, walk through the Albufeira Tunnel to get to the beach. The tunnel is carved into the rocky cliffs allowing access from the town straight to the beach. Praia do Peneco is another amazing beach in the Algarve that I know you’ll love.

Another interesting feature of the beach in Albufeira is the Elevador do Peneco. This is a public elevator that connects the beach to the top of the cliffs. It’s free to ride the elevator, and it provides easy access to the beach from the top of town. There’s also an amazing view from the top.

The old town of Albufeira isn’t very vegan or vegetarian friendly, so we took a short drive to the marina to dine at Fat Cats on the Marina. We wouldn’t have visited this area otherwise, but the marina is quite picturesque. There are rows of colorful buildings lining the harbor, filled with boats.

Fat Cats on the Marina is a British pub with a large vegan section on the menu. There’s a vegan burger, curry, chili, chili nachos, vegan pattie salad and even a vegan cheesecake.

Algarve Portugal Itinerary: Day 6

It is the last full day of our time in the Algarve. Justin and I drove to Sagres and Cabo de São Vicente, most southwesterly point in mainland Europe. It is only a 40 minute drive from Lagos, making for the perfect half day or full day trip.

Cabo de São Vicente

Cabo de São Vicente is a headland overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. This is the most southwesterly place in the Algarve and the last bit of Portuguese land that sailors would see before crossing the ocean.

There are ruins of old fortification walls and a pretty lighthouse at the edge of the cape. The lighthouse was built on the ruins of a Franciscan monastery. For history lovers, there’s a small museum and visitor’s center in the base of the lighthouse.

The beautiful landscapes here are the main draw, though it’s also a popular birding site. Many seabirds nest in the cliffs. Go for a walk along the edge of the cliff for the best scenery. Though we visited in the daytime, it’s an amazing place for watching the sunset.

Sagres

In the nearby town of Sagres, the main attraction is Fortaleza de Sagres, the Sagres Fortress. I didn’t know what to expect upon our arrival, but the property for the Sagres Fortress is so much larger than I anticipated.

The history of this area goes back to the 8th century B.C., but the fortress itself was built in the 15th century. It protected the Portuguese coastline, primarily from North African invaders. It’s on the list of European Heritage sites and is being considered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

For us, the fortress itself wasn’t the most interesting part. There is one huge wall that protects the town. Otherwise, the area is naturally protected by the massive cliffs.

The vast landscapes of the ocean are stunning. There are a few intriguing buildings to admire. The entire walk around the peninsula is about 3km long.

We really liked this modern art installation, Voz do Mar, or Chamber of Sound. Walk around a circular chamber until you reach the center. There’s a metal grate on the ground and we could hear the sounds of the tides and crashing waves. It echoed throughout this work of art.

Justin and I had lunch at Laundry Lounge Sagres. It sounds like a laundromat and part of it actually functions as a laundromat. But, it’s actually a really cool restaurant with a stylish patio in the back. It also functions as a coffee shop and a yoga studio. What a cool find!

Algarve Portugal Itinerary: Day 7

We were pretty sad to leave the Algarve! We only had the morning in Lagos before having to venture to the airport in Lisbon. It’s a scenic drive from Lagos to Lisbon that made us want to return to see more of the countryside.

This morning, we took a final stroll through Lagos to see more street art. We also stopped for a light breakfast at Pom Pom Bagels and coffee at Coffee & Waves.

If it’s a sweet treat that you are craving, pop by O Ninho Family Bar. They have both regular and vegan Portuguese tarts that are some of the best in town.

If you have another full day in the Algarve, lucky you! I suggest booking one of these tours that I haven’t mentioned elsewhere in this Algarve Portugal itinerary. These are both half day and full day tours:

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Trip Planning

More Aussies are using AI to plan holidays, from scoring deals to assembling itineraries

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I’m planning a trip to Iceland, aka one of the most expensive countries in the world.

Can I afford to go? What would a realistic budget look like for a two-week holiday? How can I cut corners to save some cash?

I decide to do the 2025 equivalent of phoning a friend — I ask my buddy ChatGPT.

My initial prompt is too vague and it gives pricing in USD, which isn’t particularly helpful. I refine my criteria, asking for a rough total in AUD for a fortnight in September, departing from Perth (“please”, I add, because manners are still important when talking to a robot).

In the blink of an eye, Chat spits out a breakdown of average costs on everything from flights to accommodation, car rental, food and activities.

There are three tiers for backpacker, mid-range and luxury travel and an option to split components if I have a travelling companion.

It even offers suggestions for making my hard-earned coin stretch further, like buying groceries rather than eating out and opting to self-drive rather than joining a guided tour of the famous Golden Circle.

All in all, Chat reckons I’ll need to save $8500-$9000 to make Iceland happen.

What would have taken me hours of research and a lot of math just to ascertain whether I can even consider the trip in the first place was reduced to mere minutes.

Cutting corners, cyber style

While I want to give myself a pat on the back for being so resourceful — there’s a certain smugness that comes with finding a sneaky shortcut — I am hardly the first to use ChatGPT for travel tips.

In recent research conducted by Compare the Market, nearly a third of those surveyed admitted to using artificial intelligence to plan their holidays.

These Aussie respondents said they outsourced a range of tasks to AI, with the most common being destination recommendations, hunting for deals, seeking activities and finding accommodation.

Others reported they used AI to quickly create itineraries, scour flights or transport and understand currency conversion.

The data also gave insight into how different generations are embracing the technology — or not.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, gen Z and millennials are spearheading the adoption of AI when it comes to concocting their dream vacation, with 52 per cent and 44 per cent respectively utilising the tool to plan a holiday.

Meanwhile, 93 per cent of baby boomers and 76 per cent of gen X respondents said they were resistant to bringing AI into their trip arrangements.

Compare the Market’s Chris Ford says the stats reflect how we engage with the ever-changing tech landscape.

“Our latest data highlights a shift in the way travellers are approaching their planning, with convenience, personalisation and speed driving the adoption of innovative AI tools,” he says.

“It’s likely that travellers are using these tools in addition to chatting with travel agents, conducting desktop research or seeking ideas and inspiration from social media.

“AI is evolving at a rapid rate and as it becomes more accessible and intuitive, it’s not surprising that travellers are relying on new technology to help shape their dream holidays.”

But the insurer warns against taking AI’s word as gospel.

With nothing to validate the credibility of such recommendations, Ford says travellers need to practice due diligence.

“AI can be a great starting point when planning a holiday, but always ensure you’re crossing your ‘t’s and dotting your ‘i’s,” he says.

“Many of these tools and services are still in their infancy stage and may not be 100 per cent accurate, so do your own research to ensure you’re equipped with the right tools and information for your trip.

“The last thing we want to see is anyone getting themselves into a potentially dangerous or unsafe situation based on the recommendations from AI.”

Camera IconMany Aussies are using virtual itineraries. Credit: Oscar Wong/Getty Images

The virtual line in the sand

Ford makes a crucial point here about our relationship with platforms like ChatGPT.

Rather than approaching them as one-stop-shop to curate every element of our holiday, we should instead consider them as a starting point to kick off deeper research.

After all, isn’t that part of the fun with travel — the anticipation in the lead-up, the process of discovering a destination before we have arrived and assembling a bucket list tailored to our specific taste?

By asking a computer to generate an itinerary based on what’s popular, we are depriving ourselves of creativity, spontaneity and adventure.

We must also remember that what the AI bot spits out is dependent on the quality of our prompts.

The more we refine our request, the more likely we will receive helpful answers, but even then things can go wonky.

Take this from my colleague Belle: “I asked ChatGPT to give me a child-friendly restaurant in Ubud. It sent me to a weird health food restaurant with a koi pond where you couldn’t wear shoes. My feral children cleared the room within minutes. Disaster.”

Then there’s the cognitive dissonance that comes with considering the environmental impact of AI versus the fear of being left behind if we don’t get on board with this technology.

Like it or not, it is shaping and re-shaping the future at breakneck speed.

We all have to decide where our (virtual) line in the sand is: what is productive and “mindful” use based on our needs and values.

For me, I’m OK with employing ChatGPT to whip up a quick budget so I can take the holiday to Iceland I’ve always dreamed of.

But when it asks if I want activity recommendations or a detailed itinerary next, I politely decline. I’d rather leave some room for mystery and exploration.

“Thanks”, I farewell my cyber mate in my sign-off (because, manners).

What the team thinks

Our collective of writers just so happens to represent the four age demographics mentioned in the research above. So what’s the hot take?

Stephen Scourfield — baby boomer

Trusting someone – or, in this case, something – to book a holiday (particularly a family holiday!) requires a lot of trust.

If some detail is missed in the booking process (a wrong date, a badly timed connection), it will be you standing there, somewhere, trying to fix it (possibly with the family “on your case”).

Would I trust AI yet?

No – not yet.

Of course, I think we all know that AI is good at doing grunt work and it is up to us to check details. So AI is already useful for the broad-brush, first sweep of mapping out a holiday.

But AI won’t then back itself by booking it all. (That will be the game changer.)

So, at this stage, AI, for me, is still a basic tool of research – not a replacement for an experienced and knowledgeable travel agent.

Leyanne Baillie gen X

Although my generation is confident when it comes to using tech (even if we’re not digital natives), I think AI programs would be more effort than they’re worth.

I know it could be a time-saver in terms of journey-planning brainstorming and getting a rough guide of options, but I’d still want to tailor my itinerary to cater to my personal taste.

I don’t think I’m ready to hand over the reins completely to artificial intelligence just yet.

Jessie Stoelwinder — millennial

I love a good travel hack, and that’s how I have been approaching my use of AI.

Anything that makes life a little easier and frees me up to investigate the fun stuff — where to eat, hike, shop, people-watch etc. — and I am on board.

I’ve used ChatGPT to quickly aggregate travel data for personal trips to assist with admin, logistics and practicalities, which I will then cross-check and verify to make sure the information works for me.

Recommendations, however? Word of mouth and insider intel from a human being will always win, in my opinion.

Megan French — gen Z

I would be open to the idea of utilising AI when planning my travels but I’d take everything it recommends with a grain of salt while still doing my own thorough research.

I think it’s great for foundational information-based planning early in trip preparations, such as “what holidays are on in India during July and how is best to navigate them?”

But when it comes to booking flights and accommodation, I’d go nowhere near AI … yet.



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Why Budapest is Europe’s most underrated city: travel guide.

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My hostel was minutes from the Danube, on the Pest side and just a perfect location. A little bit further from the city but accessible via tram, scooter, or bike and still within walking distance of great restaurants, bars and sights.

Plus, if you, like me, crave some Asian cuisine while wandering the cities of Europe, Budapest has a surprisingly incredible selection of small restaurants to try. My personal favourite was PHỞ 18 Budapest — you can thank me later.

What to do in Budapest.

Budapest is so large, and with so much to do, it’d take a tightly packed itinerary to get it all done in a few days. But here are a few of my non-negotiables.

Firstly, walk around. In my humble opinion, there is no better way to get a feel for a new city than by roaming the streets and taking in the sights on foot. Especially in Budapest, a city that can capture your imagination at every corner. Crossing the Liberty Bridge and seeing both sides of the city unfold before your eyes is an experience not easily forgotten. 

On my first morning, I walked up to Buda Castle and explored the grounds and museums before hiring a scooter and making my way back to my accommodation.

Image: Supplied.





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Travel experts share their once-in-a-lifetime itineraries for hidden Ireland

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“My first tour was in 1998, right after the Omagh bomb. So it was quite the strange time,” says Ginger Aarons. 

From the peace process and the Celtic Tiger to the advent of a multicultural society, the travel expert and genealogy enthusiast has seen huge changes across the island of Ireland in the 27 years she’s been bringing clients here on tailor-made travel trips.

And she’s not alone. Her fellow bespoke tour operators, Kate McCabe and Max Sussman of Bog & Thunder and Rachel Gaffney of Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, have also been blazing a trail from the US to highlight a 21st-century vision of Ireland to their clients, and each have their own take on what that is. 

Their tours are high-end, once-in-a-lifetime experiences, but all are agreed on one thing: luxury is not necessarily about helicopters, champagne, and five stars. 

It’s to be found in those magical moments of connection, a hidden Ireland that’s there, waiting to be revealed, if we just give it the opportunity to do so.

Rachel Gaffney at the Port of Cork

Rachel Gaffney

Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland

“Take your time. Otherwise you’re just doing a drive-by,” is what Cork woman Rachel Gaffney advises the Americans for whom she organises bespoke tours of Ireland. 

“Allow Ireland to unveil herself, because she will,” says the Dallas-based slow-travel advocate.

Gaffney moved to the States in 1996, having worked in the Irish and UK hotel industry for decades.

She set up her own travel company, Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, when she moved Stateside, and every year spends 12 weeks in Ireland doing on-the-ground research of what’s new and what will chime with her clientele, who, typically, “have a home in Aspen, and a home in Palm Beach, a home here, and a home there”.

“They have pretty high standards,” she says. “They may say they’re low maintenance, and in fairness, most are. Just get it right for them, that’s all they want.

“I have a plan, but I don’t have a plan,” she says of her annual deep dive into what Ireland has to offer. 

Coupled with her natural curiosity and an instinct for the new and unusual, what unfolds for her clients is an eclectic mix. 

While super-luxe spots invariably feature — “Ashford and Ballyfin, those are the no-brainers. I send people there because I want them to experience that” — if a place can meet her exacting standards, it stands a chance of making the cut. 

“I love Perryville House in Kinsale. Their breakfast is one of the most gorgeous in Ireland.”

Rachel Gaffney on Inis Mór

Gaffney has an eye for perfection, and the custom luggage racks in Perryville’s rooms — no bending down required — merit special mention: “the ergonomics of how you travel was thought about”.

“I’m matchmaking,” Gaffney says of her role as curator of a bespoke offering. “I’m putting clients in the right place for them.” 

The “truly spectacular” Dunluce Lodge in Co Antrim, is one of her recent discoveries, and only opened its doors this spring.

“When I visited, they were working on a putting green, which will be the largest putting green in Ireland. It’s for the residents. So, in the evening, you can sit overlooking the sand dunes and the fourth fairway of Royal Portrush and the ocean. Then, if you like, you can walk outside and practice your putting by a fire pit.”

Gaffney likes to immerse herself in a place. “I sit in bars and restaurants by myself. I talk to people. I want to see what’s happening in the area. I want to get a feel for the area, a sense of it. 

I want to be able to tell my clients, ‘when you drive out the driveway and take a left, you can continue that coast road or you can take a fork…’”

She rates Clare, calling the county one that’s “really starting to punch above its weight”, and namechecks Doolin’s Fiddle and Bow — “the natural colours, the simplicity, the bare floorboards; they brought the outside in” — and the Michelin-starred Homestead Cottage: “It’s literally in the middle of nowhere.”

“I’m finding some of the best hospitality is in the most inaccessible places. If I send people, they’ll throw the red carpet out for them. They’ll just be so delighted to have you.” Cork is close to her heart too, with one of her “most favourite hotels”, Clonakilty’s Dunmore House, sparking memories of a past trip. Gaffney had spontaneously decided to organise a morning yoga class for a group of ladies on an adjacent tiny beach and the hotel staff stepped up to elevate their experience.

After the yoga “what happened was these women, who were in their 60s and 70s, forgot themselves. They were running up and down to the water, making sandcastles. The head gardener had made a fresh-flower crown for the creator of the best one,” Gaffney recalls.

“The hotel staff brought us blankets and a picnic of strawberries and fruit from their garden and cheeses from the English Market. We were still there at four in the afternoon. It was the best day ever. Then the ladies went back to the hotel and had this fabulous dinner and sang songs in the bar. Just magical. That’s luxury.”

Rachel loves:

  • Wilder Townhouse, Adelaide Rd, D2: “It was a mansion for retired school governesses. The history in that building is so interesting.”
  • Vandeleur Walled Gardens, Kilrush, Co Clare: “Spectacular.”
  • Barrow House in Tralee: “A white Georgian manor house overlooking Barrow Bay.
  • Ekotree knitwear, Doolin, Co Clare: “The finest cashmere gloves I’ve ever seen.”
Bog & Thunder’s Kate McCabe and Max Sussman.

Kate McCabe and Max Sussman

Bog & Thunder

Dubliner Maeve Brennan, a staff writer for The New Yorker in the last century, had no time for cliches about her homeland, decrying “the bog and thunder variety of stuff that has been foisted abroad in the name of Ireland”. 

Her adjectives provided the perfect name for McCabe and Sussman’s bespoke travel business, which has an eco-tourism and sustainability focus and operates out of the duo’s Ann Arbor, Michigan base.

“We’re trying to frame Ireland as the modern country that it is. We love the Aran sweaters and we love sheep and we love pubs and all that kind of stuff. But Ireland is so much more than that,” McCabe says.

“We do three types of travel,” explains Sussman, who’s also a chef. “Private itineraries for people who want to plan their own trip; group trips, and retreats.”

The retreats are “a way for us to get more deeply embedded in a specific place,” McCabe says.

For their third annual writing retreat this year, they are staying in Within The Village, “a really special place” in Roundstone, Co Galway.

Last year, Max cooked for the group, and they enjoyed a pop-up by Westmeath-based chef Rose Greene of sustainable fermented food business 4Hands Studio. 

Bespoke food tours and curated culinary experiences are a large part of the Bog & Thunder offering.

Two decades ago, New Jersey native McCabe, whose dad is from Tullamore and has connections to Belfast through her maternal grandmother, was “doing political work around some of the outstanding issues of the peace process” as a college student, and it led to her travelling to Derry and Belfast.

After graduation, she continued to visit Ireland and Max, whom she’d met in college, came too. 

“We don’t do typical food tours,” explains McCabe, whose background is in environmental policy and sustainability. “When we design our tours, we usually have a theme or a narrative that we’re telling throughout the tour. We’re doing a tour in August with Youngmi Mayer, a Korean-American comedian whose paternal grandmother is from Cork. She just published a memoir where she talks about being Irish and not really being accepted for being Irish because she looks Korean. She’s never been to Ireland before.”

Everyone will “eat amazing food”, McCabe says, and there will be talks on “Irish history and colonisation and immigration and emigration, to ground people in the themes that Youngmi talks about in her book.”

Bog & Thunder lead a group around The Burren

The duo like the value of involving people “who aren’t necessarily guides” in the tour conversations and are also passionate about “trying to translate to people, whether they come on guided trips or do our private itineraries, how much of a multicultural nation Ireland is”.

They feel hidden Ireland still exists, but like Gaffney, emphasise the need to venture off the beaten track to find it. “Give yourself a little bit of time and freedom to explore a little bit. Every time we’re in Ireland, we meet new people who are doing incredible things.”

Once again, the Antrim coast comes up. “One of our favourite bakeries in Ireland is Ursa Minor in Ballycastle.” Lir, a seafood restaurant in Coleraine, also gets the nod. “We like to send people there,” McCabe says.

“It’s a very beautiful spot, they’re very into sustainable seafood, and sustainability is a pillar of our organisation. We like to connect travellers with people that are really walking the walk and actually translating their ethics into the food that they serve in their restaurants.”

Another sustainable seafood spot they love is Goldie, on Oliver Plunkett Street in Cork, while the city’s Izz Café is cited as a “great example of an immigrant couple who moved to Ireland and started a food business”.

Baltimore’s two Michelin star Dede, which they acknowledge as likely to be already on people’s radar, is “one of the best restaurants in Ireland”.

One of the things that makes it really special, in addition to the food, is how warm and hospitable it is,” McCabe says.

“And I’d be remiss if we were to talk about Co Cork and not mention our dear friend, Sally Barnes, the only fish smoker on the island of Ireland to work exclusively with wild fish, which is something that we consider really important.”

Since 2022, McCabe and Sussman have hosted a podcast, Dyed Green, exploring Irish food and culture, and the duo have “a medium-term goal of moving to Ireland. We’d love to own and operate a B&B with a food component one day.”

Bog & Thunder love:

  • Native Guest House, Ballydehob: We just organised a private writing retreat for some clients there.
  • Seaweed & Saltwater camper vans: For travellers who really want to get off the beaten path and travel sustainably, they have a small fleet of eco-friendly luxury Mercedes Sprinter camper vans. They’re both off-grid AND high end, and you can shower and enjoy a good night’s sleep on quality sheets.
  • Dingle Sea Salt: A project run by Tom Leach & Moe McKeown, two surfer-scientists who hand harvest and use polytunnels to evaporate all of their salt.
Ginger Aarons at Torr Head

Ginger Aarons

Time Travel Tours

Yes, it’s her real name, Ginger Aarons tells me over Zoom from Portland, mentioning the Duke of Abercorn is also a sceptic: “he can’t imagine anybody would ever christen me Ginger”. 

That impressive namedrop is a clue as to one of Aarons’s areas of expertise, genealogy; the flame-haired entrepreneur is also a master gardener, and combines these passions in her bespoke travel business, Time Travel Tours.

She’s been bringing clients to Ireland to find their lineage since 1998, and can trace her own paternal Maguire ancestry back to the Flight of the Earls in the 17th century. 

On her mother’s side, Aarons’s Dublin-born ancestor arrived “in Virginia about 1710”, meaning her US ancestors predate the founding of the United States. “My forefathers fought in the Revolutionary War.”

While her own expertise is considerable — “Ashford Castle uses me for their genealogy” — she recruits experts, such as historic garden consultant and plantsman Neil Porteous and architectural historian Robert O’Byrne, “so that everybody gets a well-rounded look at Ireland and at the history”.

“Taking people around to the gardens in Ireland is fantastic, and I have so much support — at Mount Stewart, Lady Rose came in and they gave us a Champagne welcome. I have great people on the ground.”

Her genealogy tours have a maximum of 12 participants. While they research in libraries and pore over records in great houses, her clients also frequently find themselves in graveyards in search of an ancestor’s resting place, with everyone helping each other in their quest. She has long worked with Historic Houses of Ireland but a new venture will see her promoting education around them and giving “the Irish people more reason to go to these houses, whether it’s for a concert or a country weekend”.

Ginger Aarons in Armagh

Also in the works is an associated educational film, and a book “Dogs of Historic Houses, which is going to be from the dog’s point of view”.

Aarons believes that hidden Ireland is to be found in these historic houses, some of which have new owners who are bringing new life to these “hidden gems”, as they welcome paying guests for the first time and find inventive ways of making their properties generate income.

Over the course of a fortnight, Aarons’s garden tour clients often see three gardens a day, but the pace is never rushed, and food is always an integral part of the tailor-made experience.

“We do a salvia class at Jimmy Blake’s and then go to Russborough House for lunch and a history tour. We’ll meet the Royal Horticultural Society of Ireland volunteers who look after the walled garden at Russborough, and then go to June Blake’s [near Blessington] for afternoon tea.”

This September, Aarons’s garden enthusiasts will be enjoying cookery lessons from Paul Flynn at Dungarvan’s The Tannery, another “hidden gem”, and stopping off at Manning’s Food Emporium, near Ballylickey in Cork.

“I’ve been going there for 25 years. We’ve had little kids come in and do their music and dancing. Then we’d have our picnic lunch and go to Bantry House for the history and the gardens. We’ll be doing that again.”

A new trend Aarons has noticed is more people visting Ireland for sport.

“They want to see games, even if it’s a local hurling or soccer game. People are very interested in what Irish people do in daily life.”

Ginger loves:

  • Enniscoe House, Co Mayo. “You can do a lot of walking and fishing, enjoy a glass of whiskey by the fire, and they allow dogs stay.”
  • Dunraven Arms Hotel, Adare, Co Limerick: “A great little hidden gem.”
  • virtualtreasury.ie: A virtual reconstruction of the Record Treasury and its records which were lost in a fire in 1922. “You can research your ancestry, and look up wills and all kinds of letters on there.”



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