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5 of the best Thailand itineraries

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With buzzing cities, 156 national parks, epic islands, and long, beach-fringed coastlinesThailand offers everything you need for an incredible experience. It’s also a legendary street food destination, with mind-blowing — and often inexpensive — food options waiting around every corner. Work off your meals with trekking, kayaking, white-water rafting and hiking, or just flop on some of the world’s most beautiful beaches. Whatever you choose to do, Thailand will deliver.

That’s why we’ve compiled five itineraries that take you to different parts of the country, including the lush north, Phuket and the islands, the mighty Mekong and more. Starting as one-week itineraries, add time at various stops to build the Thai holiday of your dreams.

Clockwise from top left: Enjoy wandering the streets of Bangkok. Athikhom Saengchai for Lonely Planet Ayuthaya’s most-photographed attraction is a sandstone Buddha head tangled within a bodhi tree. Justin Foulkes for Lonely Planet Admire the beauty of Haew Suwat waterfall in Khao Yai National Park. Getty Images See part of the infamous Burma Railway in Kanchanaburi. Justin Foulkes for Lonely Planet

1. Explore Bangkok and the surrounding area

Allow at least 7 days 
Distance: 483km (300 miles) 

Explore buzzing Bangkok and then head west to historic Kanchanaburi, famous for its WWII sites, and nearby Erawan National Park, which is packed with waterfalls and wildlife. From there, travel through central Thailand’s rice fields to the ancient temples of Ayuthaya, before ending your tour at Khao Yai National Park.

Bangkok: 2 days

Hit the major sites in Bangkok, including iconic Wat Arun, and superb Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, before dinner in Chinatown and a cocktail with a view at a rooftop bar. If it’s the weekend, Chatuchak Weekend Market is an essential shopping stop, but make sure you fit in a massage to relax you for the journey ahead.

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Next stop: Get a train (2½ hours) or a minivan from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi.

Kanchanaburi: 1 day

Kanchanaburi is the site of the infamous Thailand–Burma Death Railway and the bridge immortalized in the 1957-movie The Bridge On the River Kwai. Spend a few hours touring the museums and moving war cemetery here. There’s also the option of a rafting excursion on Mae Nam Kwae before you retire to your riverside resort.

Next stop: Drive from Kanchanaburi to Erawan National Park (1 hour). 

Erawan National Park: 1 day 

Just 0.5km (0.3 miles) past the park headquarters in Erawan National Park is the spectacular, seven-tiered Nam Tok Erawan, where you can swim in crystal-clear water. It’s easy to reach the first three tiers; after that it’s a steep 2km (1.2-mile) climb to the higher ones. The park is home to masses of wildlife and you’ll see monkeys around the falls. Head back to Kanchanaburi for the night.

Next stop: Drive northeast from Kanchanaburi through lime-green ricefields to Ayuthaya (4 hours). 

Ayuthaya: 1 day 

Ayuthaya is the capital of ancient Siam and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hire a bicycle to tour the dozens of atmospheric ruined temples, stopping for a riverside lunch of delicious boat noodles or grilled river prawns, both local specialties. For a different perspective on Ayuthaya, take a boat tour along the river surrounding the old city. 

Next stop: Drive from Ayuthaya to Khao Yai National Park (2 hours). 

Khao Yai National Park: 2 days 

Your final stop is Khao Yai National Park, which lies east of Ayuthaya. The park is home to herds of wild elephants, as well as bears, rare birds, barking deer and many gibbons – joining a night safari is your best chance of spotting elephants. Spend a day hiking the trails that lead to waterfalls that really gush in the June to October rainy season.

Left: The Three Kings of Chiang Mai Monument is a significant landmark that pays homage to the three founding monarchs of the Lanna Kingdom. Tanakrit Wattanasiri/239 Studio for Lonely Planet Right: Indulge in a bowl of khao soi with beef, a traditional northern Thai dish. Tanakrit Wattanasiri/239 Studio for Lonely Planet

2. See the best of Northern Thailand 

Allow at least 7 days 
Distance: 240km (149 miles)

Loop through the lush mountain scenery of Northern Thailand, starting in Chiang Mai, the historic heart of the region, and then heading north to the backpacker haven of Pai, the caves of Pang Mapha and ending in Mae Hong Son, a remote hill town that’s home to myriad minority peoples.

Chiang Mai: 2 days 

Tour the old city temples in Chiang Mai, then eat your way through the night markets. Head to a nearby ethical elephant camp or learn how to prepare Northern Thai cuisine at a cooking class. Finish with a night out in the hip bars of Nimmanhaemin Rd. 

Detour: Near Chiang Mai is Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest mountain. The summit is an easy walk, or explore the trails, temples, villages and waterfalls (1 hour).

Next stop: Take a minivan from Chiang Mai northwest to Pai (3 hours). 

Pai: 2 days 

Pai is a mountain town with a hippie vibe that has become an essential traveler stop. If you’re after thrills, try rafting the rapids of Mae Nam Pai. Alternatively, head to the nearby hot springs and waterfalls or visit villages of ethnic minority peoples. In the evenings, join everyone else at the vegan eateries and bars of Walking St.

Next stop: Drive from Pai to Pang Mapha (1 hour). 

Pang Mapha: 1 day 

Northwest of Pai is Pang Mapha, also known as Sop Pong, a sleepy little district riddled with limestone formations that are home to more than 200 cave systems. You can glide through the most-visited cave on a bamboo raft – look out for the ancient teak coffins that perch here – or contact local spelunkers to organize in-depth explorations of the caverns.

Next stop: Drive from Pang Mapha to Mae Hong Son (3 hours). 

Mae Hong Son: 2 days

Misty, mountainous and mysterious, Mae Hong Son is one of Thailand’s most fascinating destinations, a crossroads of cultures and ethnicities that feels very different from other Thai towns. A day trekking to ethnic minority villages makes a fine introduction to the area, while the evening Walking Street Market offers minority food and handicrafts. There are also temples and tea plantations to explore.

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Enjoy the sunset near the lighthouse on Phuket’s Promthep Cape. Shutterstock

3. Go island hopping 

Allow at least 10 days 
Distance: 423km (263 miles)

Get ready for some serious island hopping. Start your beach tour on Ko Samui, before heading to scuba-diving destination Ko Tao and Ko Pha-Ngan for its legendary Full Moon parties. Then it’s across to the Andaman Coast, where the glorious white-sand beaches of Phuket and Ko Phi-Phi await.

Ko Samui: 2 days

At Ko Samui superb beaches line the east and north coasts and resorts and spas offer world-class pampering. Spend a day touring the beaches by motorbike. Catch a west-coast sunset, or search for waterfalls in the jungly interior. For nightlife, head to Chaweng, Lamai and Fisherman’s Village. 

Detour: Day tour to sublime Ang Thong Marine National Park, west of Samui (2 hours).

Next stop: Take a ferry from Ko Samui to Ko Tao (1½ hours).

Ko Tao: 2 days 

Ko Tao, north of Ko Samui, is Thailand’s scuba-diving hub. It’s a place where visitors can dive almost year-round, the water is warm, the marine life plentiful and the coral reefs colorful. If an underwater adventure with whale sharks and manta rays doesn’t appeal, this is also a top spot for rock climbing and bouldering. There’s a pumping bar scene at night, too.

Next stop: Take a ferry from Ko Tao to Ko Pha-Ngan (1½ hours). 

Ko Pha-Ngan: 1 day

Join the thousands of revelers at Ko Pha-Ngan‘s monthly Full Moon parties on Sunrise Beach. Even if it’s not full moon, there are plenty of other raves staged here. Or take a long-tail boat tour of the secluded east coast, where gorgeous hidden bays are home to enticing strips of sand.

Next stop: Take a ferry back to the mainland (1½ hours) and then a bus to Phuket (4½ hours). 

Phuket: 3 days 

Your next stop is Phuket on the Andaman Coast, Thailand’s largest island, where the beaches are alluring crescents of white sand and the restaurants and nightlife range from the sophisticated to the raucous. Spend a day kayaking around the stunning limestone formations of Ao Phang-Nga, or hop a speedboat for superb snorkeling in the Similan Islands.

Next stop: Take a ferry (1–2 hours) from Phuket to Ko Phi-Phi. 

Ko Phi-Phi: 2 days 

End your island-hopping on Ko Phi-Phi, a tiny, jungle-topped island with curvy bleached beaches. There’s decent diving and snorkeling, as well as uninhabited Ko Phi-Phi Leh to visit (where scenes from the 2000-movie The Beach was filmed), while at night Ao Lo Dalam turns into a vast, open-air nightclub. For a more relaxed experience, make tracks for the tranquil east coast.

Left: Sample some green papaya salad in Ubon Ratchathani. Mark Weins for Lonely Planet Right: Take in the ornate details of Wat Phra That Phanom. Getty Images/iStockphoto

4. Explore the Mekong and the northeast

Allow at least 7 days 
Distance: 929km (577 miles)

Follow the mighty Mekong on a tour of the little-seen northeast (Isan). Begin in urban Udon Thani and head north to Nong Khai, separated from Laos by the Mekong. Move south along the river to Vietnamese-influenced Nakhon Phanom and holy That Phanom, then west to bustling Ubon Ratchathani and historic Phanom Rung.

Udon Thani: 1 day

Isan’s biggest city, Udon Thani lacks conventional sights, but its frontier food scene is one of the most exciting in Thailand. Chomp your way down Naresuan Rd, where wondrous street food awaits, or check out one of the high-end restaurants offering a fresh take on Isan’s multifaceted cuisine. In between meals, relax in Nong Prajak Park, the center of Udon social life.

Next stop: Drive or hire a lift from Udon Thani to Nong Khai (1 hour). 

Nong Khai: 1 day 

Nong Khai, a border town that sits opposite Laos on the banks of the Mekong, is a long-time traveler hangout and there are super sunset views from the laid-back cafes and restaurants along the river. October sees tens of thousands of locals gathering to watch the mysterious “Naga Fireball” phenomenon, when balls of flame shoot up in the sky above the Mekong.

Next stop: Drive from Nong Kahi to Nakhon Phanom (4½ hours). 

Nakhon Phanom: 1 day

Bicycle-friendly Nakhon Phanom is a charming riverfront town with striking views across the Mekong to the mountains of Laos. It’s also home to a vibrant Vietnamese community, whose ancestors fled French rule in Indochina; Ho Chi Minh spent two years living here. Spend a day sampling Thai-Vietnamese dishes, taking a cruise on the Mekong.

Next stop: Drive from Nakhon Phanom to That Phanom (1 hour). 

That Phanom: 1 day

South of Nakhon Phanom is peaceful That Phanom. Buddhists flock to Wat Phra That Phanom, Isan’s holiest temple. Visitors marvel at the 53m-high (174ft) stupa, said to house relics of the Buddha and first erected over 1000 years ago. There’s also a fun and busy market by the Mekong. 

Next stop: Drive from That Phanom to Ubon Ratchathani (3½ hours). 

Ubon Ratchathani: 2 days 

West of the Mekong is Ubon Ratchathani, a lively university city with a small-town vibe. Ubon is a great place to kick back for a couple of days: there’s a thriving Thai country-music scene, plenty of good food and even a few riverine beaches to laze on. And beyond Ubon are many waterfalls where you can join the locals in escaping the heat.

Next stop: Drive from Ubon Ratchathani to Phanom Rung (3½ hours). 

Phanom Rung: 1 day

Perched precariously atop an extinct volcano, Phanom Rung is the biggest and most impressive Khmer temple complex in Thailand. Dating back to the 10th century and built in the same style as Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the ruins are usually free of big crowds. End your tour by enjoying the righteous views of the surrounding countryside from here.

Relax on the beaches of Ao Manao in Prachuap Khiri Khan. Shutterstock

5. Explore temples, beaches and national parks 

Allow at least 7 days 
Distance: 224km (139 miles)

Take in one of Thailand’s most significant towns, go wildlife spotting and kick back by the beach on this tour. Start in historic Phetchaburi and swoop into Kaeng Krachan National Park. Then head to the beaches of Hua Hin and end in Prachuap Khiri Khan.

Phetchaburi: 2 days 

Phetchaburi should be on every traveler’s list: a traditional town of riverside markets and teak houses that’s also home to royal palaces, temples and caves. Spend a couple of days visiting the sites and browsing the markets, while enjoying riverfront dinners and the aromatic fruit and sweet desserts Phetchaburi is known for. Just watch out for the brazen monkeys who live here.

Next stop: Drive from Phetchaburi to Kaeng Krachan National Park (1 hour). 

Kaeng Krachan National Park: 1 day 

Spend a day at UNESCO World Heritage Site Kaeng Krachan National Park, Thailand’s largest wildlife wilderness. There’s a ton of flora and fauna, including elephants, gibbons and masses of rare birds and butterflies. Also, check out the waterfalls and nature trails. Stay in park accommodation or hire a tent.

Next stop: Drive from Kaeng Krachan National Park to Hua Hin (1 hour). 

Hua Hin: 2 days 

Thailand’s original beach resort, Hua Hin has been pulling in the locals since the 1920s, and they continue to flock here for the wide, long and safe beaches and quality seafood eateries. Hua Hin is a fun mix of big-city sophistication and old-fashioned seaside fun – think donkey rides on the beach – and it’s also a key kiteboarding and golf hub.

Next stop: Drive from Hua Hin to Prachuap Khiri Khan (1½ hours). 

Prachuap Khiri Khan: 2 days 

Pretty Prachuap Khiri Khan is delightfully relaxed, with crowd-free white-sand beaches looking out on tranquil bays and limestone karst formations. Climb the hill at the north of town for tremendous views out to sea or inland to the mountains on the Myanmar border. Prachuap has some old wooden shop houses, too, and some fine seafood restaurants.



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More Aussies are using AI to plan holidays, from scoring deals to assembling itineraries

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I’m planning a trip to Iceland, aka one of the most expensive countries in the world.

Can I afford to go? What would a realistic budget look like for a two-week holiday? How can I cut corners to save some cash?

I decide to do the 2025 equivalent of phoning a friend — I ask my buddy ChatGPT.

My initial prompt is too vague and it gives pricing in USD, which isn’t particularly helpful. I refine my criteria, asking for a rough total in AUD for a fortnight in September, departing from Perth (“please”, I add, because manners are still important when talking to a robot).

In the blink of an eye, Chat spits out a breakdown of average costs on everything from flights to accommodation, car rental, food and activities.

There are three tiers for backpacker, mid-range and luxury travel and an option to split components if I have a travelling companion.

It even offers suggestions for making my hard-earned coin stretch further, like buying groceries rather than eating out and opting to self-drive rather than joining a guided tour of the famous Golden Circle.

All in all, Chat reckons I’ll need to save $8500-$9000 to make Iceland happen.

What would have taken me hours of research and a lot of math just to ascertain whether I can even consider the trip in the first place was reduced to mere minutes.

Cutting corners, cyber style

While I want to give myself a pat on the back for being so resourceful — there’s a certain smugness that comes with finding a sneaky shortcut — I am hardly the first to use ChatGPT for travel tips.

In recent research conducted by Compare the Market, nearly a third of those surveyed admitted to using artificial intelligence to plan their holidays.

These Aussie respondents said they outsourced a range of tasks to AI, with the most common being destination recommendations, hunting for deals, seeking activities and finding accommodation.

Others reported they used AI to quickly create itineraries, scour flights or transport and understand currency conversion.

The data also gave insight into how different generations are embracing the technology — or not.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, gen Z and millennials are spearheading the adoption of AI when it comes to concocting their dream vacation, with 52 per cent and 44 per cent respectively utilising the tool to plan a holiday.

Meanwhile, 93 per cent of baby boomers and 76 per cent of gen X respondents said they were resistant to bringing AI into their trip arrangements.

Compare the Market’s Chris Ford says the stats reflect how we engage with the ever-changing tech landscape.

“Our latest data highlights a shift in the way travellers are approaching their planning, with convenience, personalisation and speed driving the adoption of innovative AI tools,” he says.

“It’s likely that travellers are using these tools in addition to chatting with travel agents, conducting desktop research or seeking ideas and inspiration from social media.

“AI is evolving at a rapid rate and as it becomes more accessible and intuitive, it’s not surprising that travellers are relying on new technology to help shape their dream holidays.”

But the insurer warns against taking AI’s word as gospel.

With nothing to validate the credibility of such recommendations, Ford says travellers need to practice due diligence.

“AI can be a great starting point when planning a holiday, but always ensure you’re crossing your ‘t’s and dotting your ‘i’s,” he says.

“Many of these tools and services are still in their infancy stage and may not be 100 per cent accurate, so do your own research to ensure you’re equipped with the right tools and information for your trip.

“The last thing we want to see is anyone getting themselves into a potentially dangerous or unsafe situation based on the recommendations from AI.”

Camera IconMany Aussies are using virtual itineraries. Credit: Oscar Wong/Getty Images

The virtual line in the sand

Ford makes a crucial point here about our relationship with platforms like ChatGPT.

Rather than approaching them as one-stop-shop to curate every element of our holiday, we should instead consider them as a starting point to kick off deeper research.

After all, isn’t that part of the fun with travel — the anticipation in the lead-up, the process of discovering a destination before we have arrived and assembling a bucket list tailored to our specific taste?

By asking a computer to generate an itinerary based on what’s popular, we are depriving ourselves of creativity, spontaneity and adventure.

We must also remember that what the AI bot spits out is dependent on the quality of our prompts.

The more we refine our request, the more likely we will receive helpful answers, but even then things can go wonky.

Take this from my colleague Belle: “I asked ChatGPT to give me a child-friendly restaurant in Ubud. It sent me to a weird health food restaurant with a koi pond where you couldn’t wear shoes. My feral children cleared the room within minutes. Disaster.”

Then there’s the cognitive dissonance that comes with considering the environmental impact of AI versus the fear of being left behind if we don’t get on board with this technology.

Like it or not, it is shaping and re-shaping the future at breakneck speed.

We all have to decide where our (virtual) line in the sand is: what is productive and “mindful” use based on our needs and values.

For me, I’m OK with employing ChatGPT to whip up a quick budget so I can take the holiday to Iceland I’ve always dreamed of.

But when it asks if I want activity recommendations or a detailed itinerary next, I politely decline. I’d rather leave some room for mystery and exploration.

“Thanks”, I farewell my cyber mate in my sign-off (because, manners).

What the team thinks

Our collective of writers just so happens to represent the four age demographics mentioned in the research above. So what’s the hot take?

Stephen Scourfield — baby boomer

Trusting someone – or, in this case, something – to book a holiday (particularly a family holiday!) requires a lot of trust.

If some detail is missed in the booking process (a wrong date, a badly timed connection), it will be you standing there, somewhere, trying to fix it (possibly with the family “on your case”).

Would I trust AI yet?

No – not yet.

Of course, I think we all know that AI is good at doing grunt work and it is up to us to check details. So AI is already useful for the broad-brush, first sweep of mapping out a holiday.

But AI won’t then back itself by booking it all. (That will be the game changer.)

So, at this stage, AI, for me, is still a basic tool of research – not a replacement for an experienced and knowledgeable travel agent.

Leyanne Baillie gen X

Although my generation is confident when it comes to using tech (even if we’re not digital natives), I think AI programs would be more effort than they’re worth.

I know it could be a time-saver in terms of journey-planning brainstorming and getting a rough guide of options, but I’d still want to tailor my itinerary to cater to my personal taste.

I don’t think I’m ready to hand over the reins completely to artificial intelligence just yet.

Jessie Stoelwinder — millennial

I love a good travel hack, and that’s how I have been approaching my use of AI.

Anything that makes life a little easier and frees me up to investigate the fun stuff — where to eat, hike, shop, people-watch etc. — and I am on board.

I’ve used ChatGPT to quickly aggregate travel data for personal trips to assist with admin, logistics and practicalities, which I will then cross-check and verify to make sure the information works for me.

Recommendations, however? Word of mouth and insider intel from a human being will always win, in my opinion.

Megan French — gen Z

I would be open to the idea of utilising AI when planning my travels but I’d take everything it recommends with a grain of salt while still doing my own thorough research.

I think it’s great for foundational information-based planning early in trip preparations, such as “what holidays are on in India during July and how is best to navigate them?”

But when it comes to booking flights and accommodation, I’d go nowhere near AI … yet.



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Why Budapest is Europe’s most underrated city: travel guide.

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My hostel was minutes from the Danube, on the Pest side and just a perfect location. A little bit further from the city but accessible via tram, scooter, or bike and still within walking distance of great restaurants, bars and sights.

Plus, if you, like me, crave some Asian cuisine while wandering the cities of Europe, Budapest has a surprisingly incredible selection of small restaurants to try. My personal favourite was PHỞ 18 Budapest — you can thank me later.

What to do in Budapest.

Budapest is so large, and with so much to do, it’d take a tightly packed itinerary to get it all done in a few days. But here are a few of my non-negotiables.

Firstly, walk around. In my humble opinion, there is no better way to get a feel for a new city than by roaming the streets and taking in the sights on foot. Especially in Budapest, a city that can capture your imagination at every corner. Crossing the Liberty Bridge and seeing both sides of the city unfold before your eyes is an experience not easily forgotten. 

On my first morning, I walked up to Buda Castle and explored the grounds and museums before hiring a scooter and making my way back to my accommodation.

Image: Supplied.





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Travel experts share their once-in-a-lifetime itineraries for hidden Ireland

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“My first tour was in 1998, right after the Omagh bomb. So it was quite the strange time,” says Ginger Aarons. 

From the peace process and the Celtic Tiger to the advent of a multicultural society, the travel expert and genealogy enthusiast has seen huge changes across the island of Ireland in the 27 years she’s been bringing clients here on tailor-made travel trips.

And she’s not alone. Her fellow bespoke tour operators, Kate McCabe and Max Sussman of Bog & Thunder and Rachel Gaffney of Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, have also been blazing a trail from the US to highlight a 21st-century vision of Ireland to their clients, and each have their own take on what that is. 

Their tours are high-end, once-in-a-lifetime experiences, but all are agreed on one thing: luxury is not necessarily about helicopters, champagne, and five stars. 

It’s to be found in those magical moments of connection, a hidden Ireland that’s there, waiting to be revealed, if we just give it the opportunity to do so.

Rachel Gaffney at the Port of Cork

Rachel Gaffney

Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland

“Take your time. Otherwise you’re just doing a drive-by,” is what Cork woman Rachel Gaffney advises the Americans for whom she organises bespoke tours of Ireland. 

“Allow Ireland to unveil herself, because she will,” says the Dallas-based slow-travel advocate.

Gaffney moved to the States in 1996, having worked in the Irish and UK hotel industry for decades.

She set up her own travel company, Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, when she moved Stateside, and every year spends 12 weeks in Ireland doing on-the-ground research of what’s new and what will chime with her clientele, who, typically, “have a home in Aspen, and a home in Palm Beach, a home here, and a home there”.

“They have pretty high standards,” she says. “They may say they’re low maintenance, and in fairness, most are. Just get it right for them, that’s all they want.

“I have a plan, but I don’t have a plan,” she says of her annual deep dive into what Ireland has to offer. 

Coupled with her natural curiosity and an instinct for the new and unusual, what unfolds for her clients is an eclectic mix. 

While super-luxe spots invariably feature — “Ashford and Ballyfin, those are the no-brainers. I send people there because I want them to experience that” — if a place can meet her exacting standards, it stands a chance of making the cut. 

“I love Perryville House in Kinsale. Their breakfast is one of the most gorgeous in Ireland.”

Rachel Gaffney on Inis Mór

Gaffney has an eye for perfection, and the custom luggage racks in Perryville’s rooms — no bending down required — merit special mention: “the ergonomics of how you travel was thought about”.

“I’m matchmaking,” Gaffney says of her role as curator of a bespoke offering. “I’m putting clients in the right place for them.” 

The “truly spectacular” Dunluce Lodge in Co Antrim, is one of her recent discoveries, and only opened its doors this spring.

“When I visited, they were working on a putting green, which will be the largest putting green in Ireland. It’s for the residents. So, in the evening, you can sit overlooking the sand dunes and the fourth fairway of Royal Portrush and the ocean. Then, if you like, you can walk outside and practice your putting by a fire pit.”

Gaffney likes to immerse herself in a place. “I sit in bars and restaurants by myself. I talk to people. I want to see what’s happening in the area. I want to get a feel for the area, a sense of it. 

I want to be able to tell my clients, ‘when you drive out the driveway and take a left, you can continue that coast road or you can take a fork…’”

She rates Clare, calling the county one that’s “really starting to punch above its weight”, and namechecks Doolin’s Fiddle and Bow — “the natural colours, the simplicity, the bare floorboards; they brought the outside in” — and the Michelin-starred Homestead Cottage: “It’s literally in the middle of nowhere.”

“I’m finding some of the best hospitality is in the most inaccessible places. If I send people, they’ll throw the red carpet out for them. They’ll just be so delighted to have you.” Cork is close to her heart too, with one of her “most favourite hotels”, Clonakilty’s Dunmore House, sparking memories of a past trip. Gaffney had spontaneously decided to organise a morning yoga class for a group of ladies on an adjacent tiny beach and the hotel staff stepped up to elevate their experience.

After the yoga “what happened was these women, who were in their 60s and 70s, forgot themselves. They were running up and down to the water, making sandcastles. The head gardener had made a fresh-flower crown for the creator of the best one,” Gaffney recalls.

“The hotel staff brought us blankets and a picnic of strawberries and fruit from their garden and cheeses from the English Market. We were still there at four in the afternoon. It was the best day ever. Then the ladies went back to the hotel and had this fabulous dinner and sang songs in the bar. Just magical. That’s luxury.”

Rachel loves:

  • Wilder Townhouse, Adelaide Rd, D2: “It was a mansion for retired school governesses. The history in that building is so interesting.”
  • Vandeleur Walled Gardens, Kilrush, Co Clare: “Spectacular.”
  • Barrow House in Tralee: “A white Georgian manor house overlooking Barrow Bay.
  • Ekotree knitwear, Doolin, Co Clare: “The finest cashmere gloves I’ve ever seen.”
Bog & Thunder’s Kate McCabe and Max Sussman.

Kate McCabe and Max Sussman

Bog & Thunder

Dubliner Maeve Brennan, a staff writer for The New Yorker in the last century, had no time for cliches about her homeland, decrying “the bog and thunder variety of stuff that has been foisted abroad in the name of Ireland”. 

Her adjectives provided the perfect name for McCabe and Sussman’s bespoke travel business, which has an eco-tourism and sustainability focus and operates out of the duo’s Ann Arbor, Michigan base.

“We’re trying to frame Ireland as the modern country that it is. We love the Aran sweaters and we love sheep and we love pubs and all that kind of stuff. But Ireland is so much more than that,” McCabe says.

“We do three types of travel,” explains Sussman, who’s also a chef. “Private itineraries for people who want to plan their own trip; group trips, and retreats.”

The retreats are “a way for us to get more deeply embedded in a specific place,” McCabe says.

For their third annual writing retreat this year, they are staying in Within The Village, “a really special place” in Roundstone, Co Galway.

Last year, Max cooked for the group, and they enjoyed a pop-up by Westmeath-based chef Rose Greene of sustainable fermented food business 4Hands Studio. 

Bespoke food tours and curated culinary experiences are a large part of the Bog & Thunder offering.

Two decades ago, New Jersey native McCabe, whose dad is from Tullamore and has connections to Belfast through her maternal grandmother, was “doing political work around some of the outstanding issues of the peace process” as a college student, and it led to her travelling to Derry and Belfast.

After graduation, she continued to visit Ireland and Max, whom she’d met in college, came too. 

“We don’t do typical food tours,” explains McCabe, whose background is in environmental policy and sustainability. “When we design our tours, we usually have a theme or a narrative that we’re telling throughout the tour. We’re doing a tour in August with Youngmi Mayer, a Korean-American comedian whose paternal grandmother is from Cork. She just published a memoir where she talks about being Irish and not really being accepted for being Irish because she looks Korean. She’s never been to Ireland before.”

Everyone will “eat amazing food”, McCabe says, and there will be talks on “Irish history and colonisation and immigration and emigration, to ground people in the themes that Youngmi talks about in her book.”

Bog & Thunder lead a group around The Burren

The duo like the value of involving people “who aren’t necessarily guides” in the tour conversations and are also passionate about “trying to translate to people, whether they come on guided trips or do our private itineraries, how much of a multicultural nation Ireland is”.

They feel hidden Ireland still exists, but like Gaffney, emphasise the need to venture off the beaten track to find it. “Give yourself a little bit of time and freedom to explore a little bit. Every time we’re in Ireland, we meet new people who are doing incredible things.”

Once again, the Antrim coast comes up. “One of our favourite bakeries in Ireland is Ursa Minor in Ballycastle.” Lir, a seafood restaurant in Coleraine, also gets the nod. “We like to send people there,” McCabe says.

“It’s a very beautiful spot, they’re very into sustainable seafood, and sustainability is a pillar of our organisation. We like to connect travellers with people that are really walking the walk and actually translating their ethics into the food that they serve in their restaurants.”

Another sustainable seafood spot they love is Goldie, on Oliver Plunkett Street in Cork, while the city’s Izz Café is cited as a “great example of an immigrant couple who moved to Ireland and started a food business”.

Baltimore’s two Michelin star Dede, which they acknowledge as likely to be already on people’s radar, is “one of the best restaurants in Ireland”.

One of the things that makes it really special, in addition to the food, is how warm and hospitable it is,” McCabe says.

“And I’d be remiss if we were to talk about Co Cork and not mention our dear friend, Sally Barnes, the only fish smoker on the island of Ireland to work exclusively with wild fish, which is something that we consider really important.”

Since 2022, McCabe and Sussman have hosted a podcast, Dyed Green, exploring Irish food and culture, and the duo have “a medium-term goal of moving to Ireland. We’d love to own and operate a B&B with a food component one day.”

Bog & Thunder love:

  • Native Guest House, Ballydehob: We just organised a private writing retreat for some clients there.
  • Seaweed & Saltwater camper vans: For travellers who really want to get off the beaten path and travel sustainably, they have a small fleet of eco-friendly luxury Mercedes Sprinter camper vans. They’re both off-grid AND high end, and you can shower and enjoy a good night’s sleep on quality sheets.
  • Dingle Sea Salt: A project run by Tom Leach & Moe McKeown, two surfer-scientists who hand harvest and use polytunnels to evaporate all of their salt.
Ginger Aarons at Torr Head

Ginger Aarons

Time Travel Tours

Yes, it’s her real name, Ginger Aarons tells me over Zoom from Portland, mentioning the Duke of Abercorn is also a sceptic: “he can’t imagine anybody would ever christen me Ginger”. 

That impressive namedrop is a clue as to one of Aarons’s areas of expertise, genealogy; the flame-haired entrepreneur is also a master gardener, and combines these passions in her bespoke travel business, Time Travel Tours.

She’s been bringing clients to Ireland to find their lineage since 1998, and can trace her own paternal Maguire ancestry back to the Flight of the Earls in the 17th century. 

On her mother’s side, Aarons’s Dublin-born ancestor arrived “in Virginia about 1710”, meaning her US ancestors predate the founding of the United States. “My forefathers fought in the Revolutionary War.”

While her own expertise is considerable — “Ashford Castle uses me for their genealogy” — she recruits experts, such as historic garden consultant and plantsman Neil Porteous and architectural historian Robert O’Byrne, “so that everybody gets a well-rounded look at Ireland and at the history”.

“Taking people around to the gardens in Ireland is fantastic, and I have so much support — at Mount Stewart, Lady Rose came in and they gave us a Champagne welcome. I have great people on the ground.”

Her genealogy tours have a maximum of 12 participants. While they research in libraries and pore over records in great houses, her clients also frequently find themselves in graveyards in search of an ancestor’s resting place, with everyone helping each other in their quest. She has long worked with Historic Houses of Ireland but a new venture will see her promoting education around them and giving “the Irish people more reason to go to these houses, whether it’s for a concert or a country weekend”.

Ginger Aarons in Armagh

Also in the works is an associated educational film, and a book “Dogs of Historic Houses, which is going to be from the dog’s point of view”.

Aarons believes that hidden Ireland is to be found in these historic houses, some of which have new owners who are bringing new life to these “hidden gems”, as they welcome paying guests for the first time and find inventive ways of making their properties generate income.

Over the course of a fortnight, Aarons’s garden tour clients often see three gardens a day, but the pace is never rushed, and food is always an integral part of the tailor-made experience.

“We do a salvia class at Jimmy Blake’s and then go to Russborough House for lunch and a history tour. We’ll meet the Royal Horticultural Society of Ireland volunteers who look after the walled garden at Russborough, and then go to June Blake’s [near Blessington] for afternoon tea.”

This September, Aarons’s garden enthusiasts will be enjoying cookery lessons from Paul Flynn at Dungarvan’s The Tannery, another “hidden gem”, and stopping off at Manning’s Food Emporium, near Ballylickey in Cork.

“I’ve been going there for 25 years. We’ve had little kids come in and do their music and dancing. Then we’d have our picnic lunch and go to Bantry House for the history and the gardens. We’ll be doing that again.”

A new trend Aarons has noticed is more people visting Ireland for sport.

“They want to see games, even if it’s a local hurling or soccer game. People are very interested in what Irish people do in daily life.”

Ginger loves:

  • Enniscoe House, Co Mayo. “You can do a lot of walking and fishing, enjoy a glass of whiskey by the fire, and they allow dogs stay.”
  • Dunraven Arms Hotel, Adare, Co Limerick: “A great little hidden gem.”
  • virtualtreasury.ie: A virtual reconstruction of the Record Treasury and its records which were lost in a fire in 1922. “You can research your ancestry, and look up wills and all kinds of letters on there.”



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