Governor Jishnu Dev Verma at the 55th convocation ceremony of Professor Jayashankar Telangana Agricultural University (PJTAU) in Hyderabad on Saturday.
| Photo Credit: SIDDHANT THAKUR
In a bid to achieve self-sufficiency in food, cultivation of rice and wheat have always gained prominence in our country. As a result, the local food systems were ignored, which not only impacted people’s health, but that of the climate, soil and water and biodiversity. This was one of the topics discussed at the 55th convocation ceremony of Professor Jayashankar Telangana Agricultural University (PJTAU) in the city on Saturday.
“To keep us healthy, we must bring back our local food systems,” said Secretary, Department of Agricultural Research and Education (DARE) and Director-General Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) Mangi Lal Jat.
While delivering his address, he called upon graduates to make a commitment to embrace agriculture not as a career choice, but as a mission to uplift farmers’ livelihoods, conserve agricultural heritage and secure India’s healthy local food systems.
He said that India, this year, has become the world’s largest producer of rice, besides horticulture, and is number two in wheat production. Doling out more numbers of annual grain production and achievements, Mr. Jat said that three factors contributed to the 11-year rapid growth: science, policy, and farmers.
“But the country’s goal must be to transform the agrifood systems from commodity-centric to systems-centric. From research prioritisation to data-driven systems and data inter-operability, to technology delivery system and institutional reforms, this can be achieved,” he said.
Gender and social inclusivity in agriculture research, system-focused research such as a combined approach of biophysical and socio-economic, and increased investment in agriculture research and development in the country, which is just 0.43% of the agri GDP now, must grow to at least 1%, compared to many countries with 2%, can make India a systems-centric agrifood system, he explained.
Digital agriculture
Governor and PJTAU Chancellor Jishnu Dev Varma said that the varsity, over the decades, has built a legacy of excellence through innovation, inclusivity and resilience, from rural argriculture experience programme conceived in 1979, which became a standard across the universities in the country, to the first in the country to establish a centre for digital agriculture, and Ag-Hub, an agri and food ecosystem and incubation centre now.
The university is in a transformative stage and is aspiring to secure a position in the top 10 agriculture universities in India, he added.
Vice-Chancellor Aldas Janaiah presented the report for 2021-22 convocation year, and said that 691 students did UG, and 153 got PG degrees and Ph.Ds.
The university currently has nine constituent colleges, 10 agri-polytechnic centres, 15 agri-research stations, 20 extension platforms and 29 ICAR network projects.
The report period is also a memorable one, Mr. Janaiah said, as the university facilitated the GI tag achievement for Tandur Redgram, besides producing 21 improved crop varieties and hybrids, 23 agro technologies, and two patents.
During the period, PJTAU signed 34 MoUs with technology and knowledge partners in India, and 19 MoUs with international universities, he said. 30 students got gold medals.
Papa’s is not your typical restaurant; it’s a cosy spot with a retro vibe, located right above the bustling Veronica’s Sandwich shop, reminiscent of a Singaporean shophouse. Set inside the warren of lanes that make up Bandra’s quirky Ranwar village, in Mumbai, India’s financial capital, the space used to be an old neighbourhood bakery called Jude’s, where freshly baked pao breads were lapped up by local residents.
The 12-seater restaurant helmed by chef Hussain Shazad, who honed his skills at New York’s Eleven Madison Park, is brought to life by the talented Hunger Inc team, behind popular establishments such as The Bombay Canteen, Bombay Sweet Shop, and O Pedro. The name Papa’s honours Shahzad’s mentor, the late chef Floyd Cardoz, who launched The Bombay Canteen. Since its opening, many international and Indian celebs have dined here, including pop sensation Dua Lipa and Indian cricketer Virat Kohli. The restaurant was listed on TIME’s annual list of the World’s Greatest Places 2025.
Chef Hussain describes the 13-course menu as ‘Indian in soul’ with influences from everywhere. The food ranges from Thayir saadam (curd rice) to caviar and everything in between. As Hussain puts it, he wanted to break free from the constraints of stuffy fine dining and create a space where lively conversations and relaxed meals could flourish.
Chef Hussain Shazad honed his skills at New York’s Eleven Madison Park
Our evening began with a delightful array of mocktails and cocktails at the small bar area, accompanied by a tray of hors d’oeuvres – savoury renditions of traditional Indian sweets inspired by Bohri meals. Bebinca, a popular Goan dessert, was given a twist with celeriac, black truffle, and date, while the typical laddoo was reimagined with cashew and quince.
The cocktails were inventive, served by hipster bartenders in black, and garnished creatively, such as with chilli oil dropped from an ink filler. From the Sea Biscuit cocktail with Tanqueray Gin, clams, basil, and fennel, to Chaasmatazz with Hapusa Gin, carom, cumin, and Greek yogurt, the focus was on local ingredients with a twist. Non-drinkers were also catered to with a creative mocktail list, my favourite being the tangy Tom Yum Yum with lemongrass, kaffir lime, ginger, and honey.
We had the privilege of sitting around the chef’s table, which offered a bird’s eye view of the cooking station, dramatically lit like a stage. The intimate and immersive atmosphere felt like dining at chef Hussain’s home. The counter, upcycled from an old wooden bar top from The Bombay Canteen, added to the charm. Hand-blown lamps, rich wood accents, pastel wallpaper, and photos on the walls gave the space a cosy, living room vibe. There were whimsical touches everywhere, from fidget spinners with messages to a lovely pocketbook where guests could scribble, colour, or even do origami.
Thayir saadam (curd rice) with Spanish goat cheese, slow-cooked beetroot, and shiso leaf tempura
Throughout the evening, we listened to Hussain share his experiences and watched him and his team assemble dishes with precision and flair. The sizzle of frying, the clatter of crockery, and the opportunity to watch experts plate each dish like a work of art made the experience truly special. Chef Hussain’s background, from Chennai and his Bohri Muslim heritage to New York, influenced his culinary creations.
The meal began with a simple yet inventive patti samosa – stuffed with feta, spearmint, and pickled apple for vegetarians, and tuna for meat eaters. There were traditional steamed Indian dumplings called modak, filled with charsiu pork and green apple, and Tibetan Tingmo with blue cheese, king oyster mushroom, and pickled chilli for vegetarians.
The team worked in synchronised coordination, dishing out flavour bombs with Indian influences. My favourite dish of the 13-course dinner was Pootharekulu, deriving its inspiration from a traditional wafer-thin rice sheet sweet from Andhra Pradesh, served with a corn and citrus salad, pomelo, and tamarind chutney wrapped inside a thin rice sheet. It was tangy and fresh, reminiscent of a Vietnamese rice paper roll.
The main course includes a biryani influenced by Chennai, made in the style of a paella with aromatic Indrayani rice from Maharashtra
Chef Hussain’s reinvention of Thayir saadam (curd rice) with Spanish goat cheese, slow-cooked beetroot, and shiso leaf tempura showcased his ingenuity and commitment to flavour. There’s hard yak’s cheese from the Himalayan region called Chhurpi which is made into a creamy soup, and served with two kinds of potatoes from Assam, in the northeast.
What impressed me is that it’s not gimmicky food that fails to deliver. I was bowled over by the presentation of each dish, with unique cutlery and containers. The ingredients are sourced from across India, but rules are broken all the time with cheeky flair and panache.
The main course included a biryani influenced by Chennai, made in the style of a paella with aromatic Indrayani rice from Maharashtra, crisped at the bottom, paired with a smoked white pumpkin yogurt dip and brussels sprouts, with the non -vegetarians getting a seven-day dry-aged duck biryani.
The unusual dessert comprises potato chips with lemon gelato and Champagne zabaglione, laced with honey
The next course Bugs Bunny, featured wild rabbit from Nashik, grilled on charcoal, and served with a dried red ant marinade from Odisha, with crushed pepper, cumin, sumac, a bit of fresh ginger, garlic and chillies. The dessert was equally unusual – potato chips with lemon gelato, Champagne zabaglione, laced with honey, and inspired by children’s birthday parties, and an ice cream sandwich served in a small carton.
Papa’s is only open for dinner and reservations must be booked online. It’s can be challenge to secure a slot, with people trying for months to get a table, but it’s definitely worth the trouble!
Factbox
Papa’s is open from Wednesday to Saturday, and seats 12 diners a night.
The tasting menus are priced at INR 7000++ per person. This menu price does not include beverages.
The name Azad has held great significance on the culinary map of Thiruvananthapuram for over eight decades. From a makeshift outlet located at Vallakkadavu named Azadinte Kada (Azad’s shop) to a diverse gastronomic portfolio consisting of restaurants, fine dining eateries, bakeries and kiosks, Azad has constantly evolved while staying true to its Travancore roots.
The latest addition to this list is a slow food restaurant with a Quick Service Restaurant model named 1940 India, located at Vazhuthacaud.
1940 India by Azad restaurant in Vazhuthacaud
| Photo Credit:
NIRMAL HARINDRAN
What is slow food?
The slow food movement, combating international fast-food chains and homogenisation of food, began in the ‘80s in Italy. The moniker is attributed to its anti-fast-food ideology and has no relation to cooking time. The campaign, founded by Italian activist Carlo Petrini against the opening of a McDonald’s outlet in Rome, is characterised by a core philosophy, “Good, clean and fair” food, covering quality of ingredients, sustainable production methods and a fair price for producers. There is also an emphasis on supporting local businesses and seasonality.
“During the opening of an international fast-food franchise outlet nearby, we discussed how almost everything, apart from a few of their employees, is imported. This income benefits only the foreign company,” says Ozman Azad, a third generation member of the family.
“We have specific local vendors for each of our shops, which expand depending on seasons. Everyone who is part of that local network benefits from this. We need to replicate this framework everywhere with the ethnic foods of that location,” says Ozman. He runs the business with his brothers, Wazim Azad and Mahin Azad. Their father, Abdul Nazar Azad, son of MP Azad, who founded their first restaurant in 1940, is the chairman of Azad Corporate.
(From left) Wazim Azad, Mahin Azad, Ozman Azad and Abdul Nazar Azad (sitting)
| Photo Credit:
SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT
Since inception, Azad’s restaurant at Overbridge known for the iconic Azad Pakka Travancore Biriyani, their fine dining restaurant Star, and their bakery and confectionary store Bread Factory, are household names in the State capital.
“We have been doing the slow food concept for 85 years. And it has always been hyper local-centric in terms of sourcing the ingredients and the staff. But 1940 India is the only place where there is an additional emphasis to serve it fast,” says Ozman.
A key difference between fast food and slow food outlets is the presence of a chef. “They play a significant role in the kitchen. Fast food is about assembling, while slow food involves preparing the components from scratch and staying away from frozen products,” says Ozman.
1940 India by Azad restaurant
| Photo Credit:
NIRMAL HARINDRAN
He adds that the smooth operation of the outlet depends on “the hub”, located at Eanchakkal, established six months before the restaurant’s opening. This facility, with 25 staff, is responsible for research, development, and operations. The restaurant has a total workforce of 23 people.
The menu
The menu of 1940 India caters to the youth, who consume fast food the most. “If slow food aims to combat fast food, then it should target the younger generation. We have sandwiches, rolls, mac ‘n’ cheese, which might draw in the younger crowd. But at the same time we serve idiyappam, chicken curry, mutton curry and so on,” says Ozman.
“We also discovered that the younger generation prefers smaller individual portions over ordering multiple dishes across the table. They have only short breaks during their work hours, so we have to serve fresh food quickly too,” he adds.
The menu is divided into five sub-groups. The I Am Young And Happy menu features sandwiches, rolls, loaded fries and mac ‘n’ cheese. My Travancore, My Love has kothu porotta, traditional crispy chicken, chicken peralan, mutton curry roast, baby Kerala porotta, noolappam and dum biriyani. Indian curries, tikkas, kebabs, bread, and rice dishes are featured in the I Am India section. I Love Asia menu has Cantonese chicken and nutty cauliflower, along with fried rice and Hakka noodles. Custard brownies, gulab jamun and soft serve comprise the dessert menu. Rajasthani thandai, a fragrant sweet drink with a spicy kick, and Punjabi lassi are also available.
My Travancore, My Love menu would differ according to the location, featuring dishes indigenous to that area, says Ozman.
1940 India by Azad restaurant
| Photo Credit:
NIRMAL HARINDRAN
“Our next step here would be to create personalised menu classifications, looking at different generations and dividing their time slots into six, serving what they would like to eat at each of these slots,” Ozman says. The peak hours are after 8pm and during the hours following the usual lunch breaks.
The slow food chain is expanding to Bengaluru next year and will establish a hub in the lead-up to that. “We are targeting areas where you can find fast-food chains; therefore, we are not limited to just metropolitan areas.”
