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3 Things I Would Have Done Differently on My Solo Trip to Japan

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In November, after three months of interviews, I lost out on a job and decided it was time for a travel break. I set out on a 3 ½-week trip to Japan.

The timing worked out — the favorable dollar-to-yen exchange rate, mild weather, and vibrant autumn foliage made it a great time to visit.

With little time to find a travel companion, I embraced the freedom of solo travel and the ability to make plans on a whim. And since I’d traveled on my own before, I thought I could wing it. This trip to Japan proved to be more difficult than expected.

My trip included exploring the “golden triangle” of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka, with day trips to nearby destinations such as Nikko, Mount Fuji, Nara, and Himeji. It also included visits to Hiroshima and Miyajima Island and a week in central Japan.

The trip cost about $3,400, not including the airfare, which I paid for with credit-card points. As a cost-conscious backpacker, I stayed in pod hotels or hostels and mostly ate street food, convenience-store fare, or noodles at ramen shops.

My biggest expense was accommodation, which totaled more than $915 for 24 nights. On-the-ground transportation added up as well. While local trains were fairly inexpensive, tickets for the Shinkansen bullet train were costly. My ride from Tokyo to Toyama was the most expensive at about $100, Hiroshima to Osaka was about $70, and Osaka to Tokyo was about $90.

A few indulgences included attending a kimono tea ceremony, a Kobe steak dinner, and visits to a handful of themed cafés.

While I loved the trip, here are three things I would have done differently.

1. More planning before the trip

My pre-trip research focused mainly on sites and activities, not the logistics. I didn’t book anything in advance, aside from my first few days in Tokyo. This led to a chaotic and inefficient trip full of missed trains, lost opportunities, and unnecessary stress.

I had read that Japan was popular in autumn, but it was busier than I expected, and difficult to find last-minute budget accommodation. Many of the popular attractions, including Tokyo’s Ghibli Museum and Ninja Tokyo restaurant, had been booked in advance. Other places throughout the country, including Osaka’s Nintendo Museum and ryokans — traditional Japanese homestays — also booked up quickly.

I did get lucky with the tea ceremony — a plus of solo traveling — but I wish I’d pre-booked the ones I missed out on.

I also would have booked accommodation ahead of time on sites with a free cancellation policy. This would have allowed me to secure lodging while also offering the flexibility to change plans.

For transportation, I would have secured my IC card when I arrived at the airport. These cards — which include Suica, Pasmo, and Icoca — are prepaid and allow easy travel among public transportation systems in big cities. After a 13-hour flight, I rushed to get to my hotel. But getting one of these cards later was harder than I expected — they were available only in the larger train stations and not consistently.

The author and a group of friends she met at a hostel explored Miyajima Island.

Erica Hobbs



2. Opted for hostels instead of capsule hotels

Many people think solo travel is about doing things alone, but one of my favorite parts is the new people you meet along the way. Hostels are usually good for being social, and I thought I’d have the same luck in capsule hotels. Instead, I found the pod hotels — though delightfully calm and spa-like — to be much less social. There were also a lot of local travelers staying at these who didn’t speak English.

But I made friends immediately at the hostels I stayed in. In Hiroshima, seven of us spent the day exploring Miyajima Island together, and I climbed a mountain I never would have visited alone. Had I started my trip in hostels, I would have made friends to travel with earlier on.

The author would have enjoyed more time in Nikko to explore temples and shrines.

Erica Hobbs



3. Spent more time in Nikko and Osaka

About 90 miles north of Tokyo, Nikko is a popular day trip, but I wish I had dedicated two full days to exploring the town properly. It’s known for both its elaborate shrines and temples and beautiful mountain scenery. When I visited in November, the sites closed at 4 p.m., and things started to get dark not long after, which meant there was a limited window to explore everything Nikko had to offer.

The 126-acre Tokugawa shrine and temple complex — which became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1999 — is less than 10 miles from Lake Chuzenji, where the Mount Nantai climb begins, but traveling from one to the other can take an hour. I could have happily wandered the complex — especially its famous Toshogu Shrine — for an entire day.

I also wish I’d had a full day to explore the beautiful lake, waterfalls, and hiking opportunities around the mountain. My single day there felt rushed and was limited to just the highlights.

The author wanted more time to explore Osaka.

Erica Hobbs



I also wish I had spent more time in Osaka. Since it is primarily known for its food, I thought two days would be enough, but it was the non-foodie parts that were my favorites and what I wish I had more time for.

Its Dotonbori area was full of lights and people with a palpable energy I liked being a part of. I enjoyed spending a half-day at Osaka Castle, but with more time I would have visited the Osaka Museum of Housing and Living and the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, which travelers I met along the way raved about. I also would have flown home directly from Osaka, which would have saved me a half day and a $90 bullet-train fare.





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Ruth Orkin on the Italian male gaze

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For decades people have speculated about this image: American Girl in Italy, by the great US photographer Ruth Orkin. On Florence’s Piazza della Repubblica in 1951, a tall young woman in a black dress walks the gauntlet between clusters of suit-wearing men. A few of them are leering at her. One man grabs his crotch, his lips pursed around some presumably unprintable utterance. Almost all of them are following her with their eyes. The woman’s face is hard to read, though she seems aggrieved by the attention – if not outright fearful for her safety.

In fact, according to the woman herself, Ninalee Allen Craig, there was something altogether more playful going on – though she insisted, to counter another assumption, that the photograph wasn’t staged. Craig, 23 at the time, was travelling around Europe when she encountered Orkin, who was staying at the same dollar-a-night hotel as her in Florence. The two women shared notes on solo travel and Orkin proposed a photo essay on the subject.

The next day they jaunted around the city, Orkin snapping the younger woman as she gazed at statues, chatted across café tables and rode shotgun in an open-top sports car.

At the Piazza della Repubblica, Orkin asked Allen to walk the gauntlet twice. The first time, Allen “clutched at herself and looked terribly frightened”, Orkin recalled in 1979. “I told her to walk by the second time, ‘as if it’s killing you but you’re going to make it’” – and that’s the shot that was used.

Allen’s memory of the scene was much sunnier. “I was having the time of my life,” she told CNN in 2017, the year before she died aged 90. “I was Beatrice walking through the streets of Florence.” In an interview with the Guardian she said the image “has been interpreted in a sinister way but it was quite the opposite. [The men] were having fun and so was I.”

Orkin’s photographs of Allen were published in Cosmopolitan in 1952. The article, featuring tips on “money, men and morals to see you through a gay trip and a safe one”, was entitled Don’t Be Afraid to Travel Alone. 

New York – New York, a show of photographs by Ruth Orkin, will be at CDIS / PhotoEspaña in Santander from 18 July to 18 October



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51 Airbnbs With Incredible Pools, From Joshua Tree to Lake Como

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While the decision to book an Airbnb is often driven by very practical considerations—location, cost, availability, and so on—we believe it’s just as important to shoot for that x-factor: in this case, a jaw-dropping swimming pool. Using Airbnb’s “amazing pools” category and our own research (yes, we’ve been lucky enough to stay in a few of these properties ourselves), we pulled together a list of 50 of the best Airbnbs with private pools around the world. From an Italian villa with an infinity pool overlooking the shores of Lake Como to a Japanese farmhouse that also boasts a sauna, these open-air retreats will take your next aperitivo hour or sunbathing session to the next level.

Whether you’re planning a bachelorette party, romantic weekend escape, or group getaway, there’s a spot on this list for every type of trip. After all, nothing beats spending a day in the water, especially when it’s in the backyard of your very own vacation home. Read on for our edit of the best Airbnbs with pools, with bucket-list picks from nearly every continent.

We’ve selected these listings based on Superhost status, editor stays, ratings, amenities, location, decor, and previous guest reviews. This gallery has been updated with new information since its original publish date. Additional reporting by Maddie Flager.




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11 Best Flared Leggings for Travel Days, According to Our Editors

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“What does everyone wear on the plane?” a colleague recently asked in the office. Before I had a chance to recommend our best leggings for flight days, she continued: “Don’t say leggings. They’re comfy, but personally I think they’re too casual to wear outside the gym.” Such is the plight of the fashion-forward traveler. How does one balance feeling genuinely comfortable in an economy seat without dressing like they’re about to settle in for the night or got lost on the way to a HIIT class?

Flared leggings might be the answer. While skinny jeans and bodycon dresses have long been banished to the back of the closet, athleisure has only more recently embraced the joys of flowier fabrics. Look now and you’ll see stylish types opting for loose, stretchy flares everywhere from reformer Pilates class to brunch and airport lounges alike.

These newer, breezier cuts range from full-flowing palazzo pants to more sleek, compressive kick flares in fabrics ranging from stretchy spandex to ultra-soft cotton. They’re different enough from regular leggings to shake off any ‘gym gear’ associations, while retaining the stretchy waistbands and breathable fabrics that are a must-have for flight days. That means they’re equal parts versatile and comfortable, and a bit smarter than wearing loungewear out of the house.

Both the US and UK Traveler teams tested 11 of the best pairs of wide-leg leggings from top brands such as Lululemon, Adanola, Tala, and Alo Yoga. We hunted for buttery-soft, relaxed fits that looked flattering and felt comfortable on the move, with waistbands that wouldn’t roll down in a plane seat. The pairs below made the cut.



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