The Sierra is showing her true face – with marmots, thunderstorms, snowy climbs, and mosquito swarms. We’re officially in the high country now. Our group is back together, we’ve had our first real alpine lake swim, and we’re camping above 3,000 meters. With wet boots, sore legs, and full bear cans, we’re ready to tackle our biggest challenge yet: Mt. Whitney.

Day 55 – Marmots, Mosquitos & Mountain Views

Last night was warm enough to sleep with just the sleeping bag draped over us. Morning was a bit of a scramble to dig out our hand sanitizer and wet wipes from the bear can, but we made it work. Packing still takes a while – we’re getting used to fitting all our food into the can – but we eventually hit the trail. A long climb awaits, and we’re happy to have gotten a head start on the rest of the group.

The landscape is fully transformed. No more desert – we’re walking through cool, shady forest, sometimes even crunching over old snow patches. Instead of snakes, we spot a marmot. Yep, we’re in the mountains now. We stop for breakfast at a gorgeous overlook and still haven’t been caught by our crew. Weird.

Veary finally catches up during snack break. The trail drops down to lunch. Turns out Timo and Lea got delayed – they forgot to collect water and even had to set up their tent at breakfast to escape the mosquito apocalypse. Apparently, the season has begun. We got lucky with a breezy, bug-free breakfast spot, but the Swiss were swarmed. And to make matters worse, a mouse chewed a hole in Lea’s sock.

We eat lunch by a creek but don’t linger – dark clouds are forming. The forecast had warned of storms. We still have to climb a ridge, so we push on. Thankfully, the clouds move the other way. The views are spectacular – even the dried-up lakebeds look dramatic.

We hike further than planned. The original camp is too early and the weather holds, so we go for it. Our new camp is beautiful, but the water source is a bit of a hike downhill. By 5 p.m., we have tents up, stretched our legs, and counted the 70 steps to dinner rock. That’s where the bear cans and anything smelly go for the night.

We’re camping at 3,144 meters. We’ll see how sleep goes – apparently, the mosquitos have no issue with elevation.

Day 56 – Storms, Snowfields & a Glacial Lake Dip

Rain during the night! Not everyone was ready. Some scrambled to throw on their tent fly, Patrik climbed out to grab his backpack from a tree, and a few of us slept through the whole three-minute shower like champs.

Out of camp by 6 a.m. The trail is beautiful – forest, meadows, and increasingly frequent snow. Our shoes are starting to get damp. Clouds start gathering late morning, and by the time we reach our lunch spot at Chicken Lake, the thunder is rolling.

On the way, we lose the trail while navigating a snow patch and have to bushwhack a bit to find it again. Luckily, we spot Lea and follow her to the lake.

The sun is still out, so we seize the moment – glacial lake swim! Absolutely freezing, but refreshing and wonderful.

The Swiss are planning to wait out the storm here – they’ve already set up their tent. We eat quickly and hit the trail again in jackets. The climb is steep and the rain eventually starts, but we’re well prepared. No lightning near our ice axes, thankfully.

After filtering water for the night (no source at camp), we come across a massive snow wall – that’s the trail. We climb it, feeling tiny in the landscape. Just before camp, we stop for a snack – no eating at camp in bear country.

Camp comes early today, which is nice. We stretch, build the tent, and relax. The Swiss arrive much later – they got caught in the rain after packing up.

Dinner is 70 steps away again, and the evening is spent making a plan for tomorrow’s Mt. Whitney summit attempt. We’re sleeping at 3,362 meters. It’s getting cold – time to tuck in.

Day 57 – River Crossings & Ready for Whitney

No alarm this morning – we’re taking it easy. Today is just 11 miles to the base of Mt. Whitney. We plan to arrive early and rest up before tomorrow’s big climb.

I try packing the bear can inside my backpack for once. Not great. First, we have to cross a river to get to breakfast. It’s a proper river, but luckily there’s a fallen tree across it. We use that to get over.

Breakfast by the water. I’m still fiddling with my pack – the can is hard and presses uncomfortably into my back. Eventually, Lea arrives… but no Timo. After a while with no sign of him, we ping him on Garmin. Turns out there was a miscommunication, and she hikes back to find him. Eventually, we’re all together again and ready to move.

What a climb. Steep, relentless. We huff and puff our way up and are rewarded with an epic view – and storm clouds building once again.

The descent feels more like a retreat from the weather. We cross another river – this time no log, so in we go, boots and socks soaked.

Thankfully, camp is just around the corner. We pitch tents fast and stash the ice axes far away, just in case. We wait in the tent, hoping for a break in the rain so we can eat.

The sky clears just in time for a late lunch. We meet up with the group, then head back for a nap.

Later, the sun comes out – we hang up our soggy shoes and socks to dry before nightfall. Nap until six, then it’s dinner time.

We sit in a cozy hiker circle with our little trail family – and a surprise guest. A coyote trots casually past our camp!

Doug starts a new tradition: a dinner conversation topic. Today’s is books. Yes, please.We prep our snacks for tomorrow’s climb, stash everything in the bear can, and crawl into our bags. It’s time. Whitney tomorrow.

Three whole nights in one place – our first proper break! Kennedy Meadows marked the end of the desert and the start of something new. Between laundry, gear upgrades, bear can drama, and one homemade Czech trail magic, we wrapped up the desert chapter in style. On Day 54, we finally stepped into the Sierra – with snow gear strapped on, a bear can full of food, and a banana bread in our pack.

Day 52 – Pancakes, Packages & Planning

The downside of hiker hubs? Too many hikers. Some partied a little too hard last night, so the early morning hours were full of loud voices and wobbly footsteps. Still, we slept surprisingly well.

We stayed in our sleeping bags until almost 7:30, but when we finally rolled out, breakfast was calling! Turns out, so was everyone else. Long line, and a delayed opening. We didn’t get food until after 10.

Patrik got a burrito; I went for the “Hiker Breakfast” with Lea and Tim – eggs, hashbrowns, sausage, and a pancake so massive it didn’t fit on the plate… or in our stomachs. We packed the leftovers for lunch.

Next mission: resupply. We waited a bit, but at least there was Wi-Fi. New shoes (finally – over 700 miles!), food, and cute little birthday beanies. Patrik gifted me mine.

Then it was time for Triple Crown Outfitters – this little shack has everything: food for 7 days, bug nets, fresh socks, gaiters, and the big-ticket items – bear canister and ice axe. The bear can is that lovely blue barrel we now have to store all our food, trash, toothpaste, and smelly stuff in overnight. The folks there also gave us a quick rundown on ice axe basics.

Next up: the chaos of repacking. Somehow, we made it work. While Patrik finally got a hot shower (the water just started working again), I queued up for the laundry.

Reward? A milkshake and a well-deserved rinse.

By dinner, we met up with Doug and Veary – our new hiking crew for the Sierra. We went over route planning and snow strategies.

Laundry pickup had one final surprise: all of us were missing a sock. We searched everywhere. Then I remembered Marlen has the same ones as me… and sure enough – she had both of ours. Sock mystery solved. Good night.

Day 53 – Double Zero = Double Chill

First time taking a double zero – three nights, two full days. Yesterday was busy. Today? Nothing but chill.

We still woke up around six (ugh, body clocks), but at least there was no rush. Breakfast: leftover pancake.

We spent the morning catching up on calls – even got to chat with our friend Marťa. Then one last trip to TCO for a few forgotten odds and ends. Slowly, it was time for lunch: we shared a pizza (no hiker hunger today).

Then came a fun moment – decorating our ice axes with nail polish and snapping a group photo.

Finally, time for real relaxation. We laid in the tent and watched a few episodes of our show.

And then: the big moment! Patrik’s Czech trail magic. A few weeks ago, he came up with a small project – to share a little piece of home with the trail. So many hikers and strangers have helped us, and he wanted to give something back. He made a post on LinkedIn asking for support, and ended up partnering with To není možný, a Czech brand. They sent us a package of Liluka snacks, which we handed out to hikers around Kennedy. We were so happy to share a bit of Czech flavor with this awesome community.

Before dinner, one last hot shower. Then burgers for dinner and a quick round of card game instructions from Timo. I was a little disappointed – they ran out of ice cream. No milk either! And I’d been looking forward to it all day…

Anyway. We repacked our food one last time, brushed our teeth, and called it a night.

Day 54 – Banana Bread & Bear Cans

We woke up naturally – a mix of excitement and nerves. New terrain, new routines. Packing took a while as we figured out how to attach everything. Patrik and I decided to keep our food inside our packs and strap the bear can (empty or with clothes) on top. Others carried their cans vertically inside the pack.

Before we left, a fellow hiker gave us banana bread – his wife had baked it for him. Then we waited for the shuttle back to trail.

Miraculously, we squeezed six hikers and their packs into the car. Back on trail! Today was a training day – hiking together as a group, even though it wasn’t strictly necessary yet.

Barely two miles in, we hit trail magic: pancakes and oranges. Yes, please!

The trail is already changing. Still a bit sandy, but no longer desert-like. We crossed a proper river and had water almost the whole way. What a luxury!

Only desert memory left? A snake watching us from the bushes.

Snack break = banana bread. Then we filtered water and had lunch by a creek. We decided to go a bit farther than planned. Doug even showed us a tree that smells like caramel!

Later, from a bridge, we saw fish in the river. From cacti to trout – what a transition. We reached our camp by 4 – a quiet spot in the woods near a little stream. We rinsed off, stretched, and set up camp.

Dinner had to be 70 steps downwind from our tents. That’s also where we left our bear cans overnight – filled with food, toothpaste, sunscreen, even trash. Everything a bear might love. Not all of it fit tonight, but we’ll eat some tomorrow. Walking there and back in camp shoes? Something to get used to.

Goodnight from the edge of the Sierra.

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